Coming Home to Eat: Re-imagining Place in the Age of Global Climate Change

回家吃飯：在全球氣候變化的時代裡重新想像地方

10.6184/TKR.200906_39(2).0001

Joni Adamson

生態批評 ； 地方感 ； 在地主義 ； 全球化 ； 食物正義 ； 生物地域主義 ； 氣候變化 ； ecocriticism ； sense of place ； localism ； globalization ； food justice ； bioregionalism ； climate change

Tamkang Review

39卷2期（2009 / 06 / 01）

3 - 26

英文

在本文裡，我把巴芭拉金莎芙(Barbara Kingsolver)的《動物、蔬菜、奇蹟：食物生命的一年》放在含括賈立保羅奈布韓(Gary Paul Nabhan)的《回家吃飯：在地食物的快感與政治》、麥可波藍(Michael Pollan)的《雜食動物的兩難：四餐的自然歷史》、以及艾力克史拉瑟(Eric schlosser)的《速食國家》的脈絡裡。這些作家聚焦於在地食物上，從而爲環境作家與批評家引出複雜的問題，包含下列這些：環境作家、批評家、或行動主義者分須要找到一個他們願意全心付出的在地地方嗎？在現代世界裡真有可能在一個地方過一生，或是全心奉獻給一個地方嗎？在全球化的時代裡，傳統的「地方感」的定義還有意義嗎？環境書寫與批評應否反映、聚焦於日益滋長的生態論述，或是把它由傳統所了解的地方移轉開來，而朝向全球生態發展的意識，如氣候改變之類的？我以生態批評家勞倫斯布爾(Lawrence Buell)及烏蘇拉海瑟(Ursula Heise)的著作爲立論點，分析《動物、蔬菜、奇蹟：食物生命的一年》這一本書，該書將焦點放在金莎芙在維吉尼亞川的一座小農場，闡揚晚近環繞在地方研究及文學上「地方感」之概念的熱烈討論。我探索金莎芙最近的一本書如何提供了食物生產、能源保護、氣候變化的研究方式，這些方式不但是建立在傳統的生態在地非小說之特點的基礎上，也同時在全球化過程的脈絡裡重新想像「地方感」的意義。

In this essay, I set Barbara Kingsolver's Animal, Vegetable, Miracle: A Year of Food Life into a context that includes Gary Paul Nabhan's Coming Home to Eat: The Pleasures and Politics of Local Foods; Michael Pollan's Omnivore's Dilemma: A Natural History of Four Meals; and Eric Schlosser's Fast Food Nation. By focusing on local foods, each of these authors raise complex questions for environmental writers and critics including the following: Must environmental writers, critics, or activists, find a local place to which they are willing to commit? Is it even possible in the modern world to live out your life in one place, or have a commitment to one place? Do traditional definitions of ”sense of place” continue to be meaningful in the global age? Should environmental writing and criticism reflect, focus or redirect the proliferation of ecodiscourses away from place as it is traditionally understood, and towards an awareness of global ecological developments such as climate change? Building on the work of ecocritics Lawrence Buell and Ursula Heise and anthropologist Arun Appadurai, I analyze how Animal, Vegetable, Miracle, with its focus on Kingsolver's small farm in Virginia, advances the spirited recent discussions surrounding place studies and literary concepts of ”sense of place.” I explore how Kingsolver's latest book is providing approaches to food production, energy conservation, and climate change that both build upon the best characteristics of conventional eco-localist nonfiction while reimagining the meaning of ”sense of place” in the context of globalizing processes.

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