農食「在地化」與「他地化」：彰化芬園楓坑米粉產業探討

Localization and Other-Localization of Agri-Food Exploration of Rice Noodle Industry in Fengkeng Community, Fenyuan Township, Changhua County

廖哲強(Zhe-Qiang Liao)；梁承澤(Cheng-Ze Liang)

地方農食 ； 在地化 ； 他地化 ； 楓坑米粉 ； local food ； localization ； other-localization ； Fengkeng rice noodles

思與言：人文與社會科學期刊

60卷2期（2022 / 06 / 01）

155 - 203

繁體中文

地方農食（local food）為當代鄉村研究重要的課題，「在地化」被認為是農食建構的主要途徑。為了打破這項迷思概念，本研究個案擇取彰化縣芬園鄉楓坑社區米粉產業，主要透過後結構主義取徑探究農食地方化的形塑歷程。研究發現：一、少有文獻探討著名產區對他域同類特產建構影響，而本個案正是在埔里米粉的影響下，呈現「在地化」與「他地化」並行的樣貌。二、楓坑米粉的地方性建構為先「他地化」、後「在地化」，有別於西方地方農食邊界的連續性擴張，個案因空間策略不同呈現位移型（relocation）及擴張型（expanded）的型態。三、由於在地化非業者唯一選項，致使品質建構、公私夥伴關係、業者間社會連結，仍有很大發展空間。此外，隨著他地化途徑差異，相關行動者呈現不同的權力關係，特別是海外及埔里地區代理人試圖透過去鑲嵌策略弱化／隱藏與楓坑連結。四、學術生產反映既有的社會現況，當代西方研究從地理／關係／價值近鄰性（proximity）界定地方農食實無法有效詮釋本個案多元的地方性，而後結構主義地理學所提出關係性框架，正可解釋楓坑米粉空間關係轉變及多重關係空間的現況。

Local food is an important topic in contemporary rural research, and ＂localization＂ is considered to be the main way to construct food. In order to break this misconception, this research case selects the rice noodle industry in Fengkeng Community, Fenyuan Township, Changhua County, and explores the shape of food localization through post-structuralism approach. The study found that: (1) There are few literatures discussing the influence of famous producing areas on the construction of similar specialties in other areas, and this case is under the influence of Puli Rice Noodle, showing the parallel of ＂localization＂ and ＂other-localization＂. (2) The local structure of Fengkeng Rice Noodle is ＂localized＂ first, and then ＂other-localized＂, which is different from the continuous expansion of western local food borders. It has relocation and expansion due to different spatial strategies. (3) Because localization is not the only option, there is still a lot of room for development in quality construction, public-private partnerships, and social connections among industry players. In addition, with different approaches to ＂other-localization＂, relevant actors present different power relationships, especially agents in overseas and Puli areas trying to weaken / hide the connection with Fengkeng through disembedding strategies. (4) Academic production reflects the existing social situation. Contemporary western studies define local food from geography/relationship/proximity and cannot effectively explain the multiple localities of this case. It is considered that the relational framework proposed by post-structural geography can explain the transformation of Fengkeng rice noodles spatial relationship and the current status of multiple relational spaces.

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