题名

Applying a Bust-To-Waist Girth Ratio Approach to Develop Body Measurement Charts for Improving Female Clothing Manufacture

并列篇名

應用胸腰圍比例法開發體型測量圖提升女性服裝製造

DOI

10.29977/JCIIE.200805.0003

作者

徐志宏(Chih-Hung Hsu)

关键词

服裝人因工程 ; 人體計測資料 ; 圍度比例 ; 體型測量圖 ; 服裝製造 ; clothing ergonomics ; anthropometric data ; bust-to-waist girth ratio ; body measurement charts ; clothing manufacture

期刊名称

工業工程學刊

卷期/出版年月

25卷3期(2008 / 05 / 01)

页次

215 - 222

内容语文

英文

中文摘要

服裝人因工程是藉由瞭解服裝與體型的關係並使服裝讓消費者合身的科學。體型測量圖對於服裝設計與尺碼是非常重要的標準,過去許多體型測量圖多使用圍度差於人體計測資料來決定體型,但是這些體型卻無法被很精確地分類。此外,目前尚沒有研究以圍度比例的方法來決定體型,故本研究提出應用胸圍與腰圍比例的方法來進行女性體型的分類。藉由所建議的方法,體型可以被精確分類並進一步來開發體型測量圖,使不同分類體型之間具有規則的尺碼,除便於瞭解外,並具有方便打版、版型放縮、排馬克與縫製等生產上的優點。本研究結果可以協助業者提升服裝製造以降低成本並強化市場競爭力。

英文摘要

Clothing ergonomics is the science of fitting the clothing to the wearers by understanding the relation between clothing and body shape. Body measurement charts are necessary for successfully designing and sizing clothing. Many body measurement charts have used the girth difference based on anthropometric data to determine body shapes, but these body shapes could not be accurately classified. Moreover, few studies have applied a girth ratio approach to body typing. This study proposes a bust-to-waist girth ratio approach for identifying female body shapes. By applying the proposed approach, body shapes can be accurately classified to develop body measurement charts. Sizes based on regular ratios of different body shapes to one another make sense to clothing manufacturers and also offer benefits in terms of pattern making, pattern grading, marker making, cutting and sewing during production. These results can help manufacturers improve female clothing manufacture by reducing costs and increasing marketplace competitiveness.

主题分类 工程學 > 工程學總論
参考文献
  1. Hsu, C. H.,H. F. Lin,M. J. Wang(2007).Developing female size charts for facilitating garment production by using data mining.Journal of the Chinese Institute of Industrial Engineers,3,245-251.
    連結:
  2. Alexander, M.,L. J. Connell,A. B. Presley(2005).Clothing fit preferences of young female adult consumers.International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology,17,52-64.
  3. Ashdown, S. P.(1998).An investigation of the structure of sizing systems.International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology,10,324-341.
  4. Burns, L. D.,N. O. Bryant(2000).The Business of Fashion: Designing, Marketing, and Manufacturing.U. S. A.:Fairchild.
  5. Chang, C. F.,T. K. Shen(1999).The model analysis of body size measurement for females from 18 to 22.Journal of Hwa Gang Textile,6,86-94.
  6. CNS(1990).Glossary of Terms Used for Apparel: CNS 12659-L1022, Chinese National Standards.Taipei, Taiwan:
  7. CNS(1990).Basic Measurement for Shirts: CNS 12659-L4160, Chinese National Standards.Taipei, Taiwan:
  8. Cooklin, G.(1999).Pattern Grading for Women`s Clothes: The Technology of Sizing.UK:Blackwell.
  9. Dai, H.(2004).China Size Designation: GB/T1335-97.China:China Textile & Garment Press.
  10. Gupta, D.,B. R. Gangadhar(2004).A statistical model for establishing body size charts for garments.International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology,16,459-469.
  11. Hair, J. F.,R. E. Anderson,R. L. Tatham,W. C. Black(1998).Multivariate Data Analysis.New Jersey:Prentice Hall.
  12. Hsu, C. H.,B. S. Liu,S. C. Chen,H. M. Kuo,I. C. D. Tsai(2007).Applying clothing ergonomics to design basic measurement for women shirts.Proceedings of 14th Ergonomics Conferences,Taichung, Taiwan:
  13. Hsu, C. H.,M. J. Wang(2005).Using decision tree based data mining to establish a sizing system for the manufacture of garments.International Journal of Advanced Manufacturing Technology,26,669-674.
  14. International Standards Organization(1991).Standard Sizing Systems for Clothes.
  15. JIS(2001).Sizing Systems for Women's Garments: JISL4005.Tokyo, Japan:Japanese Standards Association.
  16. Jongsuk, C. Y.,C. R. Jasper(1993).Garment-sizing systems: an international comparison.International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology,5,28-37.
  17. KSK(1999).Sizing Systems for Women`s and Girl`s Garments: KSK0050.Seoul, Korea:Korean Standard Association.
  18. Laing, R. M.,E. J. Holland,C. A. Wilson,B. E. Niven(1999).Development of sizing system for protective clothing for adult male.Ergonomics,42,1249-1257.
  19. McCulloch, C. E.,B. Paal,S. P. Ashdown(1998).An optimization approach to apparel sizing.Journal of the Operational Research Society,49,492-499.
  20. Moon, J. Y.,Y. J. Nam(2003).A study the elderly women`s lower body shape classification and lower garment sizing systems.Proceedings of International Ergonomics Association Conference,Seoul, Korea:
  21. Pan, J. H.(2000).Clothing Ergonomics and Clothing Design.China:China Textile & Garment Press.
  22. Tryfos, P.(1986).An integer programming approach to the apparel sizing problem.Journal of the Operational Research Society,37,1001-1006.
  23. Winks, J. M.(1997).Clothing Sizes: International Standardization.UK:Redwood.
  24. Wu, Z. G.(2002).Application of Sizing Systems.China:China Textile & Garment Press.
  25. Yu, X. K.,J. P. Wang(2003).The matching principle of bodily form and garment size series and its application in garment electronic commerce.Journal of Donghua University,29,43-47.
  26. Zheng, Y.,X. Zhang(2004).Study on the body clustering for female university students from three zones.Journal of X`ian University of Engineering Science and Technology,18,210-214.