排灣族平織技藝民族誌：以平和（Piyuma）部落及古樓（Kuljaljau）部落為中心

Ethnography of Paiwan Plain Weaving with a Special Emphasis on That of the Piyuma and the Kuljaljau Tribes

余明旂(Semuenuq Paljaljuman)；張至善(Chang Chi-shan)

排灣族 ； 織布祭儀 ； 平織 ； 水平背帶式織布機 ； Paiwan people ； weaving ritual ； plain weaving ； back-strap loom

民俗曲藝

217期（2022 / 09 / 01）

105 - 159

繁體中文

本文探討排灣族的織布，特別著重於「平織」之技藝及圖紋探討，行文由排灣族織布起源傳說及禁忌開始，記錄排灣族平和（Piyuma）部落織布祭儀的再現、描寫苧麻線材的製作工序、織布工具及使用、排灣族織布技法和織紋討論等，企圖刻畫排灣族織布在當代的樣貌，並探討排灣族織布在當代的意義。研究以田野調查和參與觀察進行，透過織者的生命歷程分享或口述知識以瞭解織布背後的文化內涵。本文主要的報導人為來義鄉古樓（Kuljaljau）部落工藝師許春美女士（排灣族語名Ljumiyang），據許春美女士陳述，她主要是靠着父親從小觀看祖母和媽媽織布的記憶，口述指導各種織法技巧，一步一步摸索，找回排灣婦女自豪的傳統文化。本文同時記錄了2020年平和部落中斷許久的織布祭儀，詳細記載了儀式過程和祭語，並探討排灣族平織織紋意義，從語言學和人類學的視角來分析織紋，考慮群體的想法及族群文化意涵，來考證織紋的意義。最後提出結論與建議，希冀能增加對於當代排灣族織布的理解。

This article discusses Paiwan weaving, with particular emphasis on the techniques and patterns of ＂plain weaving.＂ The discussion begins with the legends and taboos of the origin of Paiwan weaving, and documents the revival of weaving rituals of the Piyuma tribe. It describes the production process of ramie fiber, the weaving tools, methods, and weaving patterns in an attempt to present the contemporary revival of Paiwan weaving, and to explore its contemporary significance. Fieldwork was conducted to discern the weaver's life experience and transcribe her oral knowledge to apprehend the cultural connotations of weaving. The main informant is Ms. Hsu Chun-mei (Ljumiyang in Paiwanese), a weaver from the Kuljaljau village. Hsu Chun-mei's knowledge of weaving techniques largely relies on her father's childhood memory of watching his mother and grandmother weaving. Through gradual fumbling, she re-discovers the traditional culture that Paiwan women are proud of. This paper also records the long-discontinued Piyuma weaving ritual re-enacted in 2020. It documents the ritual process and ritual language in detail, and discusses the meaning of Paiwan plain weaving pattern. The purpose of this article is to enhance the understanding of contemporary Paiwan weaving.

1. Berkes, Fikret(1999).Sacred Ecology: Traditional Ecological Knowledge and Resource Management.Philadelphia, PA:Taylor & Francis.
2. Ferrell, Raleigh(1982).Paiwan Dictionary.Canberra:Australian National University.
3. Fiske, John(1982).Introduction to Communication Studies.London:Methuen.
4. Huang, Wei-chen(2012).Taiwan,Institute of Linguistics, National Tsing Hua University.
5. Ogawa, Naoyoshi, and Erin Asai, eds. 1935. The Myths and Traditions of the Formosan Native Tribes (Texts and Notes). Taipei: Institute of Linguistics, Taihoku Imperial University. ( 原文：小川尚義、淺井惠倫編。1935。《原語による臺灣高砂族傳說集》。臺北帝國大學言語學硏究室調查。東京：刀江書院。)
6. 住田イサミ(1989)。パイワン族の織物—無地白苧麻布の製作過程。国際服飾学会誌，6，102-110。
7. 余文儀,臺灣省文獻委員會（譯）(1993).續修臺灣府志.臺北:國史館臺灣文獻館.
8. 周明傑(2013).排灣族佳興部落手紋圖錄.新北:原住民族委員會原住民族文化發展中心.
9. 許春美(2020).tjinnun nuwa paiwan 排灣族的織布.臺東:卡塔文化工作室.
10. 黃叔璥,臺灣省文獻委員會（譯）(1996).臺海使槎錄.臺北:國史館臺灣文獻館.
11. 董天工(1961).臺海見聞錄.臺北:臺灣銀行經濟研究室.
12. 臺灣總督府臨時臺灣舊慣調查會,中央研究院民族學研究所（編譯）,蔣斌（編）(2004).番族慣習調查報告書〔第五卷〕排灣族•第三冊.臺北:中央研究院民族學研究所.