藿香於化粧品效能的研究

Study of Pogostemi Herba Extract on the Cosmetic Efficacy

10.30001/JIES.201003.0011

曾文楷(Wen-Kai Tseng)；陳宜嫻(Yi-Shyan Chen)；吳珮瑄(Pey-Shiuan Wu)；徐士蘭(Shih-Lan Hsu)；官常慶(Chang-Chin Kwan)

藿香 ； 痤瘡病原菌 ； 抗氧化 ； 專業檢測 ； 黑色素 ； 抗致突變 ； 紫外光 ； Pogostemon cablin ； acne pathogens ； Antioxidation ； Melanin ； Antimutagenicity ； UV light

美容科技學刊

7卷1期（2010 / 03 / 01）

147 - 160

繁體中文

本研究採用藿香(Pogostemon cablin (Blanco) Benth.)的乾燥莖葉為材料，經95%乙醇萃取後，所製得的藿香乙醇萃取物再進行抑制痤瘡病原菌、抗氧化性、抑制生成黑色素、抗致突變性以及UV-A及UV-B之吸收程度等試驗。在抑制痤瘡病原菌方面，100.0 mg/ml藿香萃取物對金黃色葡萄球菌、白色表皮葡萄球菌、痤瘡桿菌均有中度的抑菌活性。在抗氧化方面，10.0mg/ml藿香萃取物清除DPPH自由基的效果和還原力分別為82.3%及2.424。在抑制生成黑色素方面，藿香萃取物具輕微抑制生成黑色素的中間產物Dopachrome的活性。於沙門氏菌回復突變性試驗之結果顯示藿香萃取物不具致突變性，而且0.1mg/plate藿香萃取物對4-NQO引起致沙門氏菌TA98突變的抑制率為51.5%，屬於中度活性的抑制作用。對於UV-A及UV-B之吸收程度上，0.25 mg/ml藿香萃取物於UV-A波長範圍下之吸光值積分面積相當於0.05 mg/ml Benzophen-one-3，0.25 mg/ml藿香萃取物於UV-B波長範圍下之吸光值積分面積相當於0.05 mg/ml Avobenzone。綜合上述結果，藿香萃取物為一安全而具有化學防護效果的中草藥，且有應用於化粧品相關效能的活性。

The dried stems and leaves of P. cablin were extracted by 95% ethanol, the ethanolic extract was examined on the effects in the inhibiting acne pathogens, the antioxidative activity, the inhibiting the formation of dopachrome, the antimutagenicity and the absorbing UV-A and UV-B. In the concentration of 100.0mg/ml, the extract shows medium activities for the inhibiting acne pathogens. In the concentration of 10.0mg/ml, the ability of the extract for the scavenging DPPH free radicals is 82.3%, while, for the reducing ferric ion is 2.424. The above results indicate the extract behaves antioxidative activity. The extract possesses slight activity of inhibiting melanogenesis. The extract does not possess mutagenicity. The suppressing rate of the extract with 0.1mg/plate for the mutation of Salmonella typhimurium TA98 caused by 4-NQO is 5 1.5% which is between 40% and 60%. Suggesting that the extract belongs to the positive activity group of antimutagenicity. When the extract is used in the test of absorption of UV light, the result shows that the extract with 0.25mg/ml possesses not only the same absorptive area under UV-A as 0.05mg/ml Benzophenone-3 but also the same absorptive area under UV-B as 0.05mg/ml Avobenzone. In conclusion, the extract of P. cablin is a kind of safe chemopreventer and possesses activities of the cosmetic efficacy.