美容科技保養乳液於保濕應用之研究－以「醣基神經醯胺」為例

Study on Application of Moisturizing for Esthetic Science Emulsion: A Case Study on ＂glycosyl ceramide＂

10.30001/JIES.201906_16(1).0004

盧昱維(Yu-Wei Lu)；左宗荃(Tsung-Chuan Tso)；邱文慧(Wen-Hui Chiu)

美容科技保養品 ； 醣基神經醯胺 ； 黏度 ； 安定性 ； 保濕 ； Esthetic Science Emulsion ； glycosyl ceramide ； viscosity ； stability ； moisturizing

美容科技學刊

16卷1期（2019 / 06 / 01）

55 - 82

繁體中文

醫學美容為新世紀最熱門的美容型態代名詞，而其衍生出的美容科技保養品，更是在知識爆發的時代顛覆了愛美人士對傳統保養品成份的觀念，進而引發對於美容科技相關成份之探究。本實驗主要以市售醫美級乳液成份中「「醣基神經醯胺」」之不同濃度（0 wt%、1 wt%、2 wt%、3 wt%）對於乳液之物性影響之研究。實驗結果得知，在黏度測試中，不含「醣基神經醯胺」之乳液為非線性塑性流體，其黏度範圍在402～6525cP，含有「醣基神經醯胺」之乳液為剪切變稀型流體，其黏度範圍在54～1385cP，當乳液添加「醣基神經醯胺」時，乳液黏度會有顯著的下降；離心安定性結果得知，所有乳液於3000rpm離心30分鐘後皆無分層現象；由水份散失實驗結果得知，「醣基神經醯胺」可使乳液具有良好的保濕性，並同時可搭配其他保濕劑。本研究期望可提供使用「醣基神經醯胺」之成份設計乳液配方時之參考。

＂Medical Cosmetic＂ is the is the emerging market-oriented for cosmetic product. With the changing times and Technological progress, many people would like to study constituent in ＂Esthetic Science Emulsion＂ product are derived from Medical Cosmetic. In this study, the effects of physical properties to different concentration ＂glycosyl ceramide＂ ( 0 wt%、1 wt%、2 wt%、3 wt%) in the Esthetic Science Emulsion . In addition, the viscosity of emulsions decreased obviously when the emulsions contain glycosyl ceramide. The centrifugal stability results showed all emulsions had stability by centrifugal condition 3000rpm and 30mins. The water loss experiment showed that the glycosyl ceramide gave the emulsion the better ability of moisturizing and could cooperate with other humectants. It is a good policy to take a reference of this study to develop the application of the glycosyl ceramide on emulsion formulation.

1. Bellew, Susun,Del Rosso, James Q.(2010).Overcoming the Barrier Treatment of Ichthyosis A Combination-therapy Approach.The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology,3(7),49-53.
2. Duclos, Richard I., Jr.(2001).The total syntheses of D-erythro-sphingosine, N-palmitoylsphingosine (ceramide), and glucosylceramide (cerebroside) via an azidosphingosine analog.Chemistry and Physics of Lipids,111,111-138.
3. Elias, P.M.(1991).Epidermal barrier function: intercellular lamellar lipid structures, origin, composition and metabolism.Journal of Controlled Release,15,199-208.
4. Iwai, I.(2012).The human skin barrier is organized as stacked bilayers of fully extended ceramides with cholesterol molecules associated with the ceramide sphingoid moiety.Journal of Investigative Dermatology,132,2215-2225.
5. Kircik, Leon H.,Del Rosso, James Q.,Aversa, Daniel(2011).Evaluating Clinical Use of a Ceramide-dominant, Physiologic Lipid-based Topical Emulsion for Atopic Dermatitis.The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology,4(3),34-40.
6. Lafont, Dominique,Bouchu, Marie-Noëlle,Girard-Egrot, Agnès,Boullanger, Paul(2001).Syntheses and interfacial behaviour of neoglycolipid analogues of glycosyl ceramides.Carbohydrate Research,336,181-194.
7. MAUGARD, Thierry,REMAUD-SIMEON, Magali.,PETRE, Dominique,MONSAN, Pierre.(1997).Enzymatic Synthesis of Glycamide surfactants by Amidification Reaction.Tetrahedron,53(14),5185-5194.
8. Meckfessel, Matthew H.,Brandt, Staci.(2014).The Structure, Function, and Importance of Ceramides in Skin and Their Use as Therapeutic Agents in Skin-care Products.J Am Acad Dermatol,71,177-184.
9. Morales-Serna, José Antonio,Boutureira, Omar,Díaz, Yolanda,,Matheu, M. Isabel,Castillón, Sergio.(2007).Recent Advances in the Glycosylation of Sphingosines and Ceramides.Carbohydrate Research,342,1595-1612.
10. van Smeden, J.,Janssens, M.,Gooris, G.S.,Bouwstra, J.A.(2014).The Important Role of Stratum Corneum Lipids for the Cutaneous Barrier Function.Biochimica et Biophysica of Acta,1841,295-313.
11. 唐麗華(2008).精細化學品復配原理與技術.中國石化出版社.
12. 高濂(2005).奈米粉體的分散及表面改性.五南圖書出版股份有限公司.
13. 許德發(2008).化妝品概論.華格納企業有限公司.
14. 經濟部國際貿易局。2019。中華民國進出口貿易統計。
15. 蒲雲峰(2005)。神經醯胺功能與應用。糧食與油脂，7，14-16。
16. 閻佳(2010)。潤膚乳液的製備。化工時刊，24(7)，27-29。

1. 蔡珮淳,蔡姵玲,陳立賢,洪渝雱(2020)。探討市售保濕化粧品之功效性評估。美容科技學刊，17(1)，29-45。