「正山茶」的悔憾－從易武鄉的變遷看普洱茶價值的建構歷程

Remorse about the "Authentic Mountain Tea": Packaging Puer Tea in Yiwu

10.30152/JCDC.201007.0004

張靜紅(Jing-Hong Zhang)

易武正山 ； 普洱茶價值 ； 愈陳愈香 ； 悔憾 ； Yiwu ； the Authentic Tea Mountain ； Puer tea value ； the older the better ； remorse

中國飲食文化

6卷2期（2010 / 07 / 01）

103 - 144

繁體中文

本文以普洱茶原產地之一的西雙版納勐臘縣易武鄉爲例，講述外面的茶客來到易武探尋「易武正山茶」、與當地人在普洱茶的價值建構中互動的歷程，以及普洱茶的興衰對這個小山村在農業經濟、生態環境、製茶理念和茶飲習慣等方面帶來的影響。通過講述外來的影響和當地內在的動力，是如何共同「包裝」出一種「愈陳愈香」的價值，和塑造出一個富於「文化」內涵的普洱茶原產地形象，通過揭示人們對於普洱茶的認識，是如何地因爲其無常的價值變化而充滿了後悔、遺憾和無法預估的色彩。本文提出，在現代化和全球化進程中，某一事物身上所附有的價值及象徵意義，往往超乎尋常地複雜，它絕非天然沉澱、理所當然，而常常是即興化、條件化的，必須結合特定的歷史情景細細考察。

This paper provides an ethnography of Puer tea in one of its original production sites-Yiwu township in Xishuangbanna, Yunnan. It portrays the interaction between outside visitors and locals in packaging the authenticity of Yiwu and its Puer tea. It also shows how the rise and fall of Puer tea has deeply shaped the local agriculture, economics, ecological environment, tea processing techniques, and consumption customs. By reflecting how changes in the price of Puer tea has generated happiness and wealth as well as worries, uncertainties and remorse for local people, it suggests that in the era of modernization and globalization, the symbolic meanings attached to things are far more complicated than before and need to be re-explored more contextually and historically.

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