Repackaging Regional Chinese Cuisine: The Professionalization of Regional Chinese Restaurants in Sydney

重新包裝地區性中國菜餚：雪梨地區性中餐館的專業化

Leo Pang

中國菜餚 ； 餐廳 ； 專業化 ； 澳洲華人 ； 食物人類學 ； Chinese cuisine ； restaurants ； professionalization ； AustralianChinese ； anthropology of food

中國飲食文化

12卷2期（2016 / 10 / 01）

21 - 62

英文

本文探討雪梨地區年輕世代的餐館老闆，如何利用他們對於公共論述的知識以及非華人消費者的偏好，「重新包裝」具有地方特色的、非廣東式的中菜。透過新的展示，「地區性」中菜展現對消費者而言產生新形態，改變了大眾對於該菜餚的印象。雪梨的「地區性」中菜曾經被認為是廉價食物，但如今已獲得較高地位，因為年輕一代的餐館老闆擴大經營，使具有地方特色的中菜館不再局限於中國城與「少數族裔高度聚集的郊區」。雪梨地方性中菜的重新包裝與專業化，已使「地區性」中餐館日益普及，同時也反映了中國在全球經濟影響力的增加。「專業化」說明了中國與全球經濟整合的多重面向，中國不僅是世界的工廠，同時也是專業的提供者，例如提供訓練有素的廚師。

In this paper, I show how a younger generation of restaurant owners uses their knowledge of public discourse and the preferences of non-Chinese people in Sydney to ＂repackage＂ regional, non-Cantonese Chinese cuisines, in order to change the public perception of these cuisines through new presentations of ＂regional＂ Chinese cuisine in new spaces with new performances. In Sydney, ＂regional＂ Chinese restaurants, once regarded as a source of cheap food, have now attained a higher status as a new generation of owners expand their businesses to take regional Chinese restaurants beyond Chinatown and the ＂ethnoburbs.＂ The repackaging of ＂regional＂ Chinese cuisine in Sydney and the professionalization that has led to the increase in popularity of ＂regional＂ Chinese restaurants reflects the increasing role of China in the global economy. This professionalization is indicative of the increasing integration of China into the global economy at multiple levels- not only as the world's factory, but also as a supplier of skilled professionals, such as trained chefs.

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