雙——無盡的分裂與融合以棒針編織與異材質為媒介的服裝實驗創作

Knitting the Unity of Opposites: An Experimentation in Mixed Media Textiles

黃川納(CHUAN-NA HUANG)；董雅卉(YA-HUEI TUNG)

服裝設計 ； 棒針編織 ； 異材質 ； 銅綠 ； 染色 ； 雙 ； Fashion Design ； Knitting ； Mixed Media ； Verdigris ； Dyeing ； Unity of Opposites

實踐設計學報

19期（2024 / 04 / 01）

82 - 106

繁體中文;英文

「雙」，一個圓滿完整體之中無盡的分裂與融合。回顧過去所有創作，發現自己不斷地在談論一種「兩兩成對、性質互斥的元素，它們共存且無法分割而視之」的概念。這樣的概念不只存在於藝術中，內在的思想、外在的事物、世界運行的模式裡也能找到它的影子，本研究將其命名為「雙」。而「雙」究竟是什麼模樣？本研究首先以中國周易及老子、日本西田幾多郎、及德國黑格爾的哲學思想為本，歸納出「雙」的內涵，藉著文字化和圖像化，讓「雙」不再是一個難以解釋且抽象的概念。接著分析藝術家今敏、鹽田千春和小松美羽的背景與作品，重新詮釋從中獲得的藝術表現媒介，透過服飾的型態將「雙」具象化。以棒針編織為方法，進一步發展出「扭轉」——模糊「正面」、「反面」意義的立體結構——為服裝創作的主要元素。在材質面則是在溫暖而感性的毛線中加入冰冷理性的金屬紅銅線作為變因，兩者的衝突最後因銅綠的染色而融合。無論是未有形象、僅存於文字中的概念，抑或是經過藝術媒介轉化成的實體，「雙」是一個具發展性、仍有無限變化可能的概念。本研究希望以此系列創作映照自我、也映照「雙」，向外傳達其內涵並使其不斷向未來延續。

"The unity of opposites" is an endless interplay of fission and fusion within a holistic whole. Reflecting on my past creative endeavors, a recurrent theme concerning elements that come in pairs, are mutually contradictory yet coexist indivisibly becomes evident. This concept transcends the realm of art and manifests in internal thoughts, external phenomena, and the patterns of our world, herein termed "the unity of opposites." The study began by deriving the essence of the concept through an amalgamation of insights from the Chinese classics Zhou Yi and Tao Te Ching, Japanese thinker Nishida Kitaro, and the German philosopher Hegel. Through textual and visual means, the abstract notion of the unity of opposites was demystified. Then, by analyzing the lives and works of artists Kon Satoshi, Shiota Chiharu, and Komatsu Miwa, their mediums of artistic expression were reinterpreted and channeled to transform the idea of the unity of opposites into tangible forms through the medium of apparel. Using intricate knitting techniques, a "twist" was created as the centerpiece of the work - a unique three-dimensional structure blurring the distinction between the garment's front and back. On the material front, the juxtaposition of wool's invitingly warm and sensuous feel with copper thread's cold, composed properties resulted in a captivating conflict that eventually melded as verdigris permeated the yarns. Whether as formless ideas existing solely within text or as transformed entities through art media, the unity of opposites embodies an evolving concept with infinite possibilities for transformation. Through a series of creations, this study aspires to reflect on the self and the idea of the unity of opposites, thereby projecting its essence outward while perpetuating it into the future.