台北市移植的味覺地圖

The Displaced Gustatory Map in Taipei

10.6572/JHT.9(1).2

陳其澎(Chie-Peng Chen)

飲食（gastronomy） ； 味覺 ； 流離失所 ； 移植 ； gastronomy ； gustatory sense ； diaspora ； displacement

餐旅暨觀光

9卷1期（2012 / 03 / 01）

19 - 36

繁體中文

對人類社會的飲食文化深入研究，發現在世界不同的民族中，飲食文化是其整體文化層面中重要的一環，不同國家的飲食文化都是其整體文化的重要表徵。有關於西方飲食文化之演變，西方文學的著述中都有極為精闢的描述。透過他們對美食認知的旅程，食物遂表現出心理性、美學性，象徵性的許多意涵。猶太人可以稱為世界上最流離失所的（diasporic）民族，然而流亡於世界不同地區的猶太人，卻格外謹守其傳統Kosher的飲食方式。中國人在近代歷史中，也是屬於顛沛流離的民族，以遷徙為主所衍生飲食文化的研究自然成為本文的重點。除了研究中國人飲食文化移植海外的演變之外，特別是經過國共內戰之後，許多中國大陸飲食文化移植台灣，在台灣所造成的變化，使台灣呈現一幅結合中國大陸不同地域飲膳經驗的味覺地圖。本文利用台灣當代的飲食文學做為研究之素材，深入探討不同世代食客老饕的飲膳經驗。在西方的學術論域中，討論有關歷史上因為種族的遷徙，造成空間的移轉，以至對飲食的變化之影響如：黑人的靈魂食物（soul food）；回教徒的民族食物（ethnic food）等。也有學者評論在當今世界大城市中，由於人們的游牧式的跨國移動，所以會出現多樣化的飲食變化，不管是過去與現在，在臺灣飲食的味覺地圖似乎就是這種寫照。

If we probe deeply into the dietary culture of the human society, we will find that the dietary culture, among the various global nationalities, is the most important part of the comprehensive cultural sphere. The various national dietary cultures are the important representations of their culture as a whole. Regarding the transformation of the western dietary culture, there have the most extreme penetrating descriptions in their literature writings. Foods, in terms of the acknowledging process of gastronomy, thus became the varied signified representations in which a lot of psychological, aesthetic, symbolic significations could be expressed. Although the Jewish people exile to different parts of the world and are called the most diasporic nationality in the world, nevertheless, they obey their traditional kosher gustatory style. In modern history, the Chinese are also categorized as a diasporic nationality; the study of dietary culture, due to displacement, naturally becomes the topic of this study. In addition to studying the change of the displaced dietary culture, particularly after the civil war between the Nationalists and the Communists, the grand retreat from Mainland China also caused a lot of dietary cultures to immigrate to Taiwan. The change caused a new dietary culture map that is shown in Taiwan, which is concluded with different mainlands' gustatory experiences as a whole. By means of the contemporary dietary culture literatures as studying materials, this paper is aiming to probe deeply into the various gustatory experiences of the gluttons from varied generations. There is a discussion in the western academic discourses, in which the main point, owing to displaced spaces, is to discuss the change of dietary cultures such as African American soul food, Islamic ethnic food, etc. In addition, there are other scholars who criticized the international nomadic displacement, stating that it is the main reason that caused the variations of gastronomy in the world. In conclusion, whether it is in the past or the present, the gustatory map of Taiwan is thus the perfect portrayal.

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