避疫養生與節日飲食

Epidemic Prevention and Festival Diet

10.6641/PICCFC.91012.2006.09.22

楊玉君(Yu-Jun Yang)

瘟疫 ； 節日 ； 飲食 ； epidemic ； festival ； diet

中華飲食文化學術研討會論文集

第9屆（2006 / 08 / 01）

389 - 413

繁體中文

個別的節日性質雖則因其形成的過程及其在一年當中的不同時間點而有不同的意義，但是大約可以組分為兩種較為突出的特色：其一是以祈求婦人及作物多產豐饒的生命崇拜節日，其二是以避免死亡為主要動力的死亡抗拒節日。針對避免死亡的部分，先民最具體的死亡恐懼來自疾病，而疾病駭人的程度叉以其傳染性質的疫病為最。為了防止感染瘟疫，在節日行事及節日飲食中，便有許多防疫的祕方。瘟疫又因其起因而分成所謂的「氣病曰疫，鬼病曰癘」(《玉燭寶典》卷7，頁429)，為防止這兩種不同的疫病，防疫的對策便有調節陰陽之氣，以及驅逐疫鬼兩種。後者主要借重大儺逐疫的儀式，而調節陰陽之氣便有賴於飲食的調攝，尤其是在特定節日的飲食被視為具有更特殊的功效。本文將節日飲食討論的重點放在較具普遍性及代表性的節日飲食，例如個別家庭會為節慶特別準備的菖浦酒、菊花酒以及粽子，湯圓等各種米麵加工品。除了系統性的列出各種明確說明避疫目的的節日飲食外，本文也參照各種醫藥文獻以及相關節日傳說，發掘出節日飲食中，較隱而不彰的避疫成分。最後，本文將整理出避疫飲食的基本概念：節日時所食用的食品，搭配其節日的性質，而有促進生殖或避疫保健的「功效」。

The nature of individual festival varies according to its history and its status in the calendrical year. Still, it is possible to divide them roughly into two categories: one that celebrates the fertility of women and crop, and another that has the fear for death as its main motive. Regarding death prevention, ancient people 's fear for death conceptualized into the notion of disease , especially epidemics that have the potential to spread widely. To prevent oneself from contracting epidemic, one has to administer several rituals and diet formulas during festival activities. Ancient people consider epidemics the result of disrupted qi (both in the environment and within one's body) and the malice of evil spirits. Effective remedies therefore include stabilizing the qi as well as exorcizing the evil spirits. The latter relies on the no exorcist ritual and its later variations. As for stabilizing the qi, one resorts to the therapeutic diet. Certain food-and-drink ingested on a specific festival was considered especially effective. This article puts its emphasis on the more prevalent and representative festival food, such as chrysanthemum wine and rice dumplings. In addition to systematically laying out the epidemic prevention quality of the festival food, I will also refer to medical books and related legends to uncover the more latent side of the festival food. Finally, I will demonstrate that food and drink taken on the day of the festival carries energy that enhances one's vitality and strengthen one 's protection against diseases.