法國旅人與珍珠奶茶的邂逅：一個飲品樂趣商機民族學

French Tourists Encounter Pearl Milk Tea: Towards an Ethnology of Drinking Pleasure

10.6641/PICCFC.13.2013.13.18

楊豐銘(Fong-Ming Yang)

外籍旅者 ； 臺灣人待客 ； 外食 ； 零嘴樂趣 ； 喝珍奶 ； foreign travelers ； taiwanese hospitality ； street food ； snacking pleasure ； bubble tea drinking

2013 中華飲食文化國際學術研討會論文集

第13屆（2013 / 10 / 20）

351 - 364

繁體中文

至今，珍珠奶茶經濟產值喧囂遠勝其社會價值靜思。本土而言，我們稱珍奶全民飲料，但它的食物地位從未趁機提升擴展。海外觀看，這杯飲品被鎖定速食簡餐與外帶冷熱飲等全球化連鎖經營，但「全球化」總讚揚生意人，少深究食客體驗與氛圍。怎樣向非在臺灣生長的旅人傳達吸、含、嚼、吞粉圓顆粒的樂趣，滋味的體會帶來那些對臺灣的社會情感或旅遊遙想？跨文化交流的知識引介與行動帶領是如何進行？在2010至2012年期問，筆者訪談19位近五來年曾長短期旅臺的法國人；分別於巴黎、臺北與高雄三地收集紀錄他們品嚐珍奶過程的遊歷。綜台粉圓，奶、茶的食品是甜點或飲料？食物定義的問題啟發探究在地風俗民情的興趣。珍奶被欣賞的主因是遠離拘謹飲食規範的新奇感，擁有活潑的食物定位以及彈性的食用方式。即使珍奶傳播的區域廣泛了，它的本質仍是零嘴，還是外食文化的產物。談起喝珍奶，不應炫耀單一食品的美好與優勢，而要扎實支撐它發達的觀念與實踐。期望珍奶的興起帶動零嘴樂趣－以往備受歧視的正餐外食物－在華語世界飲食文化永續進步的重視。

Until now, pearl milk tea has been examined in terms of its economic value, rather than its social significance. Locally, it is described as a growingly popular refreshment, yet its status neither rises nor develops. Abroad, it is construed as a globalized drink, sold in fast food chains or in hot and cold beverages shops. However, this globalization appears to be driven more by the intelligence of traders than by the loyalty and appreciation of consumers. Communicating the pleasure associated with the consumption of tapioca balls implies transferring specific know-how about sipping, chewing, swallowing, sucking. To someone neither born nor grown in Taiwan, this funny feeling could conjure up a complex social imaginary focusing on this country. What are the cross-cultural exchanges and interactions at play in such an encounter? During the years 2011 and 2012, the author has been interviewing nineteen French tourists who travel often or occasionally to Taiwan. He has been collecting and recording their travel stories about consuming milk tea in Paris, in Taipei and in Kaohsiung. Is this mixture of tapioca balls, tea and milk a drink or a dessert? The question of food definition brings forth the motivation to engage with Taiwanese practices and civilization. The main incentive to pearl milk tea appreciation is the new sensation, which allows a pleasurable detour from standard food. This drink represents a dynamic nourishment, positioned in a flexible food system. Even if the drink is widespread, its very nature remains related to snacks and street food culture. While analyzing pearl milk tea, we should not exaggerate its success, but focus on the actual consumer behaviours and the cultural elements underlying it. We hope that the diffusion of bubble tea will lay emphasis on the pleasure of snacking - i.e. of food eaten outside of the meal - in the progress of Chinese world's food culture.