A Culturally-Oriented Design Process for Modern Fashion Textile Designs

文化為導向之流行織品設計流程

卓欣穎(Hsin-Ying Cho)

文化創意產業 ； 流行織品設計 ； 織品設計流程 ； 文化導向之設計流程 ； 文化元素 ； cultural and creative industries ； fashion textile design ； textile design process ； culturally-orientated design process ； cultural elements

藝術學報

92期（2013 / 04 / 01）

143 - 176

英文

傳統圖紋經常為流行織品的設計靈感來源。以文化為靈感來源的流行商品反映出傳統之美、文化認同以及國家形象，並且也保留了國家文化的傳統。許多專業的學術文獻提及在高度競爭的全球市場中，設計被視為是服裝及織品企業成功的關鍵要素；有效的設計流程可以提升服裝及織品商品的成功性。此篇論文針對織品與服裝的設計流程，以及傳統元素應用在現代商品中的設計流程做文獻探討。本研究採用「半結構式訪談」針對台灣服裝織品專家學者及廠商進行深度訪談。訪談結果發現數種運用傳統圖紋元素進行圖案設計的方法；當運用傳統圖紋於現代織品或服裝中時，設計師不要完全複製原始傳統圖紋，設計師需了解傳統圖紋的起源、象徵與其意義，以便運用傳統圖紋的特點和精神在新設計中。此外，經由深度訪談，本研究亦發現創作織品圖案設計時需考慮幾項關鍵要素，包括目標客戶的需求、時尚潮流、預算和公司的方向。根據訪談結果，以及各種設計流程與流行理論之文獻探討，本研究提出一個應用傳統圖紋到現代織品設計的新設計流程；此設計流程可提升學生及設計師應用傳統圖紋於流行織品設計的成功性。此篇研究也提供重新運用傳統圖紋到現代流行商品的設計方法。

Patterns from the past have frequently been a source of creative ideas for fashion textiles. Culturally-inspired fashion products reflect traditional beauty, cultural identity, and national image, and preserve national cultural heritage. A significant body of professional and scholarly literature demonstrates that design is considered to be a key factor in contributing to the success of fashion and textile enterprises in a highly competitive global market and that an effective design process can facilitate the success of apparel and textile products. This paper gives an overview of the de sign process used in textile and clothing design, and reviews the processes involved with regard to using traditional elements for contemporary products. A series of semi-structured interviews were carried out in Taiwan. The findings of interview research showed several methods of pattern design that use elements of traditional images. Designers do not copy from original traditional patterns when using traditional patterns in modem textiles or clothing. They need to understand the origin, symbols and meaning of a traditional pattern, in order to apply characteristics and spirit of a traditional pattern in new designs. The research al so uncovered several crucial factors that should be considered when creating pattern designs, including target customers' needs, fashion trends, bud get and the direction of a company. Based on these results, and an investigation into the design process and fashion theories, a model of a new design process for reinterpreting traditional patterns into contemporary ones is proposed. University students and designers can apply this design process model to any textile design project based on traditional patterns. This study also has provided some guidelines for reinterpreting traditional images for the contemporary fashion market.

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