英文摘要
|
China has a long tradition of storing ice in cellars from as early as the tenth century Be. This method was practiced by most governments since the Zhou dynasty (1050-211 B.C.). The Ming (1368-1644) and Qing (1644-1911) dynasties were no different. According to records, in 1644, the year that the Qing dynasty was founded, officially approved ice storage constituted 208,621 blocks. That number was supposedly copied from the Ming's system. In 1716 and 1728 ice storage was reduced, declining to as little as 90,000 blocks. After that, the amount of storage increased slowly. In 1743, it reached the 200,000-block level again. In 1821, the required amount was reduced by 20,000, and the annual amount of ice remained at 180,000 blocks until the end of the Qing dynasty. One ice block during the Qing dynasty weighed about 100 kilograms, which means annual ice storage ranged from 9,000 to 20,000 tons. After 1743, the government sold ice blocks to the public, and as many as 11,000 tons were sold annually. Ice blocks in Beijing collected during the winter by the Ming and Qing governments were mainly used to preserve the sacrificial offerings of the fourth to ninth months of the lunar calendar and for royal consumption. In addition, ice blocks were issued to officers during summer days. Ice water was also provided to officers at each day's meetings. As well, foreign emissaries were also given ice water during the Qing dynasty. During the last days of Emperor Kangxi, jailed prisoners were also given ice water to prevent heat stroke. In 1732, Emperor Yongzheng ordered ice water to be supplied to pedestrians at the nine gates of Beijing Inner City. This practice continued until the end of the Qing dynasty. Since the middle of the Qing dynasty, many wealthy elites adopted the practice of supplying ice water on the streets, a merciful act that made residents of Beijing less prone to heat stroke in summer. Without air conditioning, the heat of summer and autumn was unbearable, and people sought ways to cool their living quarters. The government issued ice blocks to officers in the fourth month of the year; as well, civilians could also buy ice blocks and place them in their homes. In Beijing during the Qing dynasty, it was common for upper-class families to place an ice bowl or box in the living room. Thanks to ice cellars, summer days became much less bothersom. This was a luxury unavailable to the southerners. Many people missed it when they left Beijing. During the Ming and Qing dynasties, seafood was brought into Beijing, kept fresh through the use of ice. Although the fish that reached Beijing were far from kicking, they were still alive and it was said that you could eat them raw. Besides using ice in transportation, fish and meat merchants in Beijing frequently stored unsold fish or meat in ice cellars. Restaurants and butchers were also known to store boxes of meat in ice cellars. They also stored small quantities of unsold meat in iceboxes and large quantities in ice cellars. Fruit dealers in Beijing, like their fish and meat counterparts, used ice cellars to preserve their products. Cellar owners usually accept fruit beginning in the seventh month. These stored fruits usually could be sold at a hefty profit margin in the autumn and winter. Their prices could be much higher than in season, but people at least had fresh fruit to eat all year round. During the Ming and Qing dynasties, street side ice sellers were usually selling ice water or iced brewed plum drinks. Boiling preserved plums and rose or cassia petals with rock sugar made the so-called brewed plum drink, which was chilled with ice. This extremely popular cold drink was the thirst buster of its day. The abundant ice storage of both public and private sectors in Beijing changed the lives of civilians and officers. Officers had ice water to drink at work. They also had home-delivered ice blocks issued by the Emperor. This unique benefit was unmatched in Western countries. As to daily food and drink, many benefited from the increased food safety that ice made possible. After 1732, people could have ice water at Beijing's nine gates and on the streets. This was important to public welfare and health. Since ice blocks were inexpensive, even ordinary people could have ice in the summer. This kind of social equality amazed British visitors. In the summer of 1793, John Barrow, the private secretary of British ambassador George Macartney, commented on the way Beijing people used ice: "The luxury of ice, in the neighborhood of the capital, is within the reach of the poorest peasant; and, although they drink their tea and other beverages warm, they prefer all kinds of fruit cooled on ice." In a word, civilians in Beijing were leading a better life than those in Britain, at least in terms of access to ice.
|
参考文献
|
-
邱仲麟(2005)。冰窖、冰船與冰鮮:明代以降江浙的冰鮮漁業與海鮮消費。中國飲食文化,1(2),31-95。
連結:
-
宮中硃批奏摺.財政類.乾隆朝
-
(1976)。光緒(文登縣志)。台北:成文出版社據民國廿二年鉛印本影印。
-
五代王仁裕(1988)。開元天寶遺事。成都:巴蜀書社點校本。
-
五代馮贄(1998)。雲仙散錄。北京:中華書局點校本。
-
元周密(2001)。武林舊事。濟南:山東友誼出版社校注本。
-
元袁桷(1965)。清容居士集。台北:台灣中華書局聚珍仿宋版。
-
元脫脫等撰(1977)。宋史。北京:中華書局點校本。
-
宋西湖老人(1983)。南宋古迹考。杭州:浙江人民出版社點校本。
-
宋吳自牧(1984)。夢粱錄。杭州:浙江人民出版社點校本。
-
宋周必大(1983)。景印文淵閣四庫全書,冊595。台北:台灣商務印書館。
-
宋孟元老著、鄧之誠注(1961)。東京夢華錄。香港:商務印書館。
-
宋梅堯臣(1998)。梅堯臣集編年校注。上海:上海古籍出版社點校本。
-
宋陳元靚(1977)。(筆記小說大觀),編20,冊4-5。台北:新興書局。
-
宋楊萬里(1983)。(景印文淵閣四庫全書),冊1160-1161。台北:台灣商務印書館。
-
宋葉紹翁(1989)。四朝聞見錄。北京:中華書局點校本。
-
明于慎行(1983)。(景印文淵閣四庫全書),冊 1291。台北:台灣商務印書館。
-
明方弘靜(1995)。四庫全書存目叢書,集部,冊121。台南:莊嚴文化事業公司。
-
明王思任(1995)。續修四庫全書,冊1368。上海:上海古籍出版社點校本。
-
明田藝蘅(1992)。留青日札。上海:上海古籍出版社點校本。
-
明伕名繪(2000)。宮庭寫本食物本草。北京:華夏出版社影印。
-
明何景明(1983)。(景印文淵閣四庫全書),冊 1267。台北:台灣商務印書館。
-
明李東陽等(1989)。正德(大明會典)。東京:汲古書院影正德四年司禮監刊本。
-
明李時珍補訂(1990)。食物本草。北京:中國醫藥科技出版社點校本。
-
明李夢陽(1983)。(景印文淵閣四庫全書),冊 1262。台北:台灣商務印書館。
-
明沈榜(1980)。宛署雜記。北京:北京古籍出版社鉛印本。
-
明沈德符(1995)。(續修四庫全書),冊1377。上海:上海古籍出版社點校本。
-
明明太祖敕撰(1981)。諸司職掌。台北:國立中央圖書館據(玄覽堂叢書初輯)本影印。
-
明邵寶(1983)。(景印文淵閣四庫全書),冊1258。台北:台灣商務印書館。
-
明俞汝楫等編(1983)。(景印文淵閣四庫全書),冊597-598。台北:台灣商務印書館。
-
明孫承恩(1983)。(景印文淵閣四庫全書),冊 1271。台北:台灣商務印書館。
-
明徐渭(1983)。徐渭集。北京:中華書局點校本。
-
明張爵(1982)。京師五城坊巷衚衕集。北京:北京古籍出版社鉛印本。
-
明陸深(1983)。(景印文淵閣四庫全書),冊1268。台北:台灣商務印書館。
-
明黃訓編。皇明名臣經濟錄。
-
明劉侗、于奕正(1980)。帝京景物略。北京:北京古籍出版社點校本。
-
明劉若愚(1994)。酌中志。北京:北京古籍出版社點校本。
-
明潘李馴(1983)。(景印文淵閣四庫全書),冊576。台北:台灣商務印書館。
-
明薛蕙(1983)。(景印文淵閣四庫全書),冊1275。台北:台灣商務印書館。
-
明謝肇淛(1995)。(四庫全書存目叢書),集部,冊175。台南:莊嚴文化事業公司。
-
唐韋應物(1998)。韋應物集校注。上海:上海古籍出版社點校本。
-
清允祿等編(1983)。(景印文淵閣四庫全書),冊414-415。台北:台灣商務印書館。
-
清允祿等纂(1995)。雍正(大清會典)。台北:文海出版社據雍正十年刊本影印。
-
清允祹等編(1983)。(景印文淵閣四庫全書),冊619。台北:台灣商務印書館。
-
清孔尚任(2004)。孔尚任全集輯校註評。濟南:齊魯書社。
-
清文昭(1997)。(四庫未收書輯刊),輯8,冊22。北京:北京出版社。
-
清文煜等編。光緒(欽定工部則例)。
-
清毛奇齡(1983)。(景印文淵閣四庫全書),冊1320-1321。台北:台灣商務印書館。
-
清王鳴盛(1995)。(續修四庫全書),冊1434。上海:上海古籍出版社。
-
清伊桑阿等纂(1993)。康熙(大清會典)。台北:文海出版社據康熙二十九年刊本影印。
-
清伕名(2003)。北京民間風俗百圖。北京:北京圖書館出版社。
-
清伕名。內務府現行則例。
-
清托津等奉敕纂(1991)。嘉慶(欽定大清會典)。台北:文海出版社據嘉慶二十三年武英殿刊本影印。
-
清托津等奉敕纂(1991)。嘉慶(欽定大清會典事例)。台北:文海出版社據嘉慶二十三年武英殿刊本影印。
-
清朱珪(1995)。(續修四庫全書),冊1452。上海:上海古籍出版社。
-
清羊城舊客(1988)。津門紀略。天津:天津古籍出版社點校本。
-
清吳仰賢(1995)。(續修四庫全書),冊1548。上海:上海古籍出版社。
-
清吳省欽(1995)。(續修四庫全書),冊1448。上海:上海古籍出版社。
-
清吳振棫(1995)。(續修四庫全書),冊1521。上海:上海古籍出版社。
-
清李虹若(1995)。朝市叢載。北京:北京古籍出版社點校本。
-
清李清(1982)。三垣筆記。北京:中華書局點校本。
-
清李慈銘(1963)。越縵堂日記。台北:文光圖書公司影印。
-
清李調元(1995)。(續修四庫全書),冊1456。上海:上海古籍出版社。
-
清汪如洋(1995)。(續修四庫全書),冊1476。上海:上海古籍出版社。
-
清佟世思(1995)。(四庫全書存目叢書),集部,冊272。台南:莊嚴文化事業公司。
-
清施閨章(1983)。(景印文淵閣四庫全書),冊 1313。台北:台灣商務印書館。
-
清孫殿起輯、民雷夢水編(1982)。北京風俗雜詠。北京:北京古籍出版社。
-
清徐永年增輯(1971)。新增都門紀略。台北:文海出版社據宣統二年刊本影印。
-
清茹綸常(1995)。(續修四庫全書),冊1457。上海:上海古籍出版社。
-
清郝懿行(1995)。(續修四庫全書),冊1481。上海:上海古籍出版社。
-
清郝懿行(1989)。證俗文。揚州:江蘇廣陵古籍刻印社。
-
清高衍(1995)。(四庫全書存目叢書),集部,冊202。台南:莊嚴文化事業公司。
-
清勒德洪等奉敕修(1964)。清高宗實錄。台北:華聯出版社。
-
清崑岡等編(1976)。光緒(欽定大清會典事例)。台北:新文豐出版公司。
-
清張九鉞(2000)。(續修四庫全書),冊 1433。上海:上海古籍出版社。
-
清張五典(1995)。(續修四庫全書),冊1457。上海:上海古籍出版社。
-
清張玉書等編(1983)。(景印文淵閣四庫全書),冊1298-1299。台北:台灣商務印書館。
-
清張廷玉等撰(1974)。明史。北京:中華書局點校本。
-
清張塤(1995)。(續修四庫全書),冊1449。上海:上海古籍出版社。
-
清梁國治等纂(1983)。(景印文淵閣四庫全書),冊600。台北:台灣商務印書館。
-
清清高宗敕撰(1983)。(景印文淵閣四庫全書),冊620-625。台北:台灣商務印書館。
-
清盛大士(2000)。(續修四庫全書),冊1493。上海:上海古籍出版社。
-
清許宗彥(1995)。(續修四庫全書),冊1492。上海:上海古籍出版社。
-
清陳維崧(1956)。四部叢刊初編。台北:台灣商務印書館。
-
清陳錦(1995)。(續修四庫全書),冊1548。上海:上海古籍出版社。
-
清陶元藻(1995)。(續修四庫全書),冊1441。上海:上海古籍出版社。
-
清富察敦崇(2000)。帝京歲時記。上海:上海古籍出版社。
-
清富察敦崇(1961)。帝京歲時記。北京:北京出版社點校本。
-
清彭蘊章(1995)。(續修四庫全書),冊1518。上海:上海古籍出版社。
-
清曾燠(1995)。(續修四庫全書),冊1484。上海:上海古籍出版社。
-
清程晉芳(1995)。(續修四庫全書),冊1433。上海:上海古籍出版社。
-
清童槐(1995)。(續修四庫全書),冊1498。上海:上海古籍出版社。
-
清華長卿(1995)。(續修四庫全書),冊1533。上海:上海古籍出版社。
-
清華鼎元輯(1986)。梓里聯珠集。天津:天津古籍出版社點校本。
-
清鄂爾泰等編纂(1997)。國朝宮史。北京:北京古籍出版社點校本。
-
清黃宗羲編(1987)。明文海。北京:中華書局影清抄本。
-
清黃爵滋(1995)。(續修四庫全書),冊 1521。上海:上海古籍出版社。
-
清斌良(1995)。(續修四庫全書),冊1508。上海:上海古籍出版社。
-
清楊鳳苞(1995)。(續修四庫全書),冊1476。上海:上海古籍出版社。
-
清瑞禧等纂。金吾事例。
-
清董平章(2000)。(續修四庫全書),冊1537。
-
清董訥(1995)。(四庫全書存目叢書),集部,冊242。台南:莊嚴文化事業公司。
-
清翟灝(1995)。(續修四庫全書),冊 1441。上海:上海古籍出版社。
-
清趙執信(1993)。趙執信全集。濟南:齊魯書社點校本。
-
清謝階樹(1997)。(四庫未收書輯刊),輯10,冊29。北京:北京出版社。
-
清嚴我斯(1995)。(四庫全書存目叢書),集部,冊239。台南:莊嚴文化事業公司。
-
清竇遴奇(1995)。(四庫全書存目叢書),集部,冊214。台南:莊嚴文化事業公司。
-
清顧宗泰(1995)。(續修四庫全書),冊1459。上海:上海古籍出版社。
-
[清]弘曉(1995)。(績修四庫全書),冊1444。上海:上海古籍出版社。
-
[清]查慎行(1983)。(景印文淵閣四庫全書),冊 1326。台北:台灣商務印書館。
-
[清]潘榮陞(1961)。帝京歲時紀勝。北京:北京出版社點校本。
-
[清]震鈞(1982)。天咫偶聞。
-
Abel, Clarke(1818).Narrative of a Journey into the Interior of China and of a Voyage to and from that Country in the Years 1816 and 1817.London:Longman.
-
Anderson, Oscar Edward, Jr.(1953).Refrigeration in America: A History of a New Technology and its Impact.Princeton, New Jersey:Princeton University Press.
-
Barrow, John(1804).Travels in China, Pekin to Canton.London:T. Cadell and W. Davies in the Strand.
-
Bell, John(1966).A Journey from St. Petersburg to Pekin, 1719-22.New York:Bames & Noble.
-
Chang, K. C., ed.(1977).Food in Chinese Culture: Anthropological and Historical Perspectives.New Haven:Yale University Press.
-
Cummings, Richard O.(1949).The American Ice Harvests.Berkeley and Los Angeles:University of California Press.
-
David, Elizabeth(1995).Harvest of the Cold Months: The Social History of Ice and Ices.New York:Viking Penguin Books.
-
Davis, John Francis(1857).China: A General Description of that Empire and its Inhabitants. Vol. I..London:John Murray.
-
Dickson, Paul(1972).The Great American Ice Cream Book.New York:Galahad Books.
-
Donaldson, Barry,Bernard Nagengast(1994).Heat & Cold: A Selective History of Heating, Ventilation, Air-conditioning and Refrigeration from the Ancients to the 1930s.Atlanta, GA:American Society of Heating, Refrigeration and Air-conditioning Engineers.
-
Fidler, J. C.(1979).A History of Refrigeration throughout the World.Paris:International Institute of Refrigeration.
-
James, Peter,Nick Thorpe(1994).Ancient Inventions.New York:Ballantine Books.
-
Jones, Joseph C.(1993).America's Iceman: An Illustrative History of the United States Natural Ice Industry, 1665-1925.Humble, Tex:Jobeco Books.
-
Kinross, Felicity(1991).Coffee and Ices: The Story of Carlo Gatti in London.London:Felicity Kinross.
-
Morrison, Hedda著、董建中譯(2001)。洋鏡頭裡的老北京。北京:北京出版社。
-
Reinder, Pim(1999).Licks, Sticks and Bricks: A World History of Ice Cream.Rotterdam:Unilever.
-
Ricci, Matthew著、何高濟、王遵仲、李申譯(1983)。利瑪竇中國札記。北京:中華書局。
-
Roche, Daniel(2000).A History of Everyday Things: The Birth of Consumption in France. 1600-1800.New York:Cambridge University Press.
-
Schafer, Edward H.(1963).The Golden Peaches of Samarkand: A Study of the Tang Erotics.Berkeley and Los Angeles:University of California Press.
-
Weightman, Gavin(2001).The Frozen Water Trade: How Ice from New England Lakes Kept the World Cool.New York:Harper Collins Publishers.
-
Wilson, David(1980).The Colder the Better: From the Ice Cream of Kublai Khan to the Cryomedicine of Tomorrow the People, the History, the Future Technology of the Science of Cold.New York:Atheneum Books.
-
中央研究院歷史語言研究所校勘(1962)。(明實錄)及附錄。台北:中央研究院歷史語言研究所。
-
王之鴻(2002)。義和冰窖與黨的地下情報站。北京黨史,3,46-50。
-
王仁湘(1994)。飲食與中國文化。北京:人民出版社。
-
王庭洽(1988)。「挫糟凍飲、酌清涼些」:古人對自然冰的利用。歷史月刊,11,151-153。
-
丘光明編著(1992)。中國歷代度量衡考。北京:科學出版社。
-
田濤、郭成偉整理(1996)。清末北京城市管理法規(1906-1910)。北京:北京燕山出版社。
-
申報
-
伕名(1938)。京津風土叢書。北平:松筠閣。
-
吳廷燮等纂(1998)。北京市志稿。北京:北京燕山出版社校勘本。
-
呂思勉(1987)。論學集林。上海:上海教育出版社。
-
李春芳、樊國忠著(1997)。問巷話蔬食:老北京民俗飲食大觀。北京:北京燕山出版社校勘本。
-
孟暉(2005)。潘金蓮的髮型。南京:江蘇人民出版社。
-
林乃燊(1989)。中國飲食文化。上海:上海人民出版社。
-
邱仲麟(1998)。點名與簽到:明代京官朝參、公座文化的探索。新史學,9(2),1-43。
-
金受申(1989)。老北京的生活。北京:北京出版社。
-
金易、沈義羚(1991)。宮女談往錄。北京:紫禁城出版社。
-
金寄水、周沙塵(1988)。王府生活實錄。北京:中國青年出版社。
-
金雲臻(1989)。餖飣瑣記。北京:博文書社。
-
侯仁之、金濤編(1993)。古都北京。北京:人民美術出版社。
-
高巍編著(1999)。京城舊影。瀋陽:遼寧美術出版社。
-
張玉麟(1988)。北京往事談。北京:北京出版社。
-
郭伯南(1990)。文物縱橫談。北京:文物出版社。
-
陳光新(1990)。中國烹飪史話。武漢:湖北科學技術出版社。
-
楊子朗(1997)。古人的鑿冰藏冰和用冰。中國歷史教學參考,12,27。
-
楊皚(1998)。周代對自然冰的利用。文史雜誌,6,60。
-
葉祖孚(1998)。燕都舊事。北京:中國書店。
-
路工編選(1982)。清代北京竹枝詞。北京:北京古籍出版社。
-
翟鴻起(1997)。老北京的街頭巷尾。北京:中國書店。
-
趙爾異等撰(1976)。清史稿。北京:中華書局點校本。
-
齊如山著、鮑瞰埠編(1993)。故都三百六十行。北京:書目文獻出版社。
-
鄧之誠(1991)。骨董瑣記。北京:中國書店點校本。
-
鄧雲鄉(1998)。(增補燕京鄉土記),下冊。北京:中華書局。
-
鄧雲鄉(2001)。水流雲在叢稿。北京:中華書局。
-
顧瑞(1992)。漁史文集。台北:淑馨出版社。
|