再製「台味」：遷移中國大陸台灣人家庭廚房的日常實踐

Why ＂Taiwanese Flavors＂ are Reproduced? Everyday Cooking in Taiwanese Expatriate Families in China

10.6242/twnica.10.1

鄧建邦(Jian-Bang Deng)

外派人員 ； 伴遷配偶 ； 家事服務員 ； 食物 ； 口味 ； expatriate ； accompanying spouses ； domestic workers ； food ； taste

台灣學誌

10期（2014 / 10 / 01）

1 - 26

繁體中文

在遷移研究中，探討家務移工與跨界專業工作者的研究，向來被視為兩條平行線，前者探討低階藍領人群的城鄉∕跨界移動，後者則聚焦在白領專業技術工作者的跨境遷移。這篇研究嘗試打破上述藩籬，透過家庭煮食，連結家務移工及伴隨（專業技術工作者）遷移的女性，觀察她們在移居家庭中廚房的日常實踐。研究試圖回答台籍移居家庭的每日廚房煮食「為何」，以及「如何」再製台式口味菜餚？經驗資料主要來自2008至2013年田野觀察與訪談，共取得48份訪談資料。研究指出，第一，「台味」的再製，不僅是因台籍遷移者移居後，對台灣社會的懷念與回憶，同時也連結到台籍伴遷配偶對於家庭烹調料理的健康論述。第二，移居家庭廚房的「台味」再製，與其說經由遠距方式挪用台式食材進行製造，毋寧關鍵的是經由台籍伴遷配偶與中國大陸家事服務員的特殊廚事分工，以及在廚房每日協商、妥協與合作的結果。第三，台籍外派人員配偶遷移中國大陸後，成為「情境下的全職家庭主婦」，相對於外出賺取家庭薪資的先生，家事領域成為其主要生活重心，台式家常口味烹調的日常再製正是表現她對家人的愛與關心，經由廚房煮食維繫移居家庭成為一體。

In migration studies, research on domestic workers and on expatriates has been seen as two different parallel research areas, in which the former focuses on unskilled, and the later on skilled migration. This research tries to break this barrier by focusing on everyday cooking in Taiwanese expatriate families by examining the cooking practices of accompanying spouses and their domestic workers. Main research questions of the paper are focused on why and how meals with Taiwanese flavors are reproduced in the practice of daily cooking by Taiwanese migrant families? Empirical material for the paper is mainly based on a fieldwork of 48 in-depth interviews with both Taiwanese expatriate spouses and Chinese domestic workers conducted during 2008-2013. Research results show, firstly, that meals with Taiwanese flavors in the everyday cooking of expatriate families are significant not just because they embody elements of nostalgia, but also because of the discourse on health of Taiwanese food made by accompanying spouses. Secondly, ＂Taiwanese cooking＂ in the kitchen of Taiwanese expatriate families is not mainly comprised of imported foods from Taiwan, but relying on the division of labor in the kitchen including shopping, meals planning and cooking that has been negotiated among Taiwanese accompanying wives and Chinese female domestic workers. Finally, for Taiwanese expatriate spouses as ＂situational full-time housewives＂ in China, home-cooked meals with Taiwanese flavors are essential both for demonstrating their love and concern for families and bringing all relocated family members to eat together ＂as a family＂.

1. 藍佩嘉(2004)。女人何苦為難女人？雇用家務移工的三角關係。台灣社會學，8，43-97。
   連結：
2. Anthias, F.(Ed.),Lazaridis, G.(Ed.)(2000).Gender and Migration in Southern Europe. Women on the Move.Oxford:Berg.
3. Belasco, Warren James(2008).Food: The Key Concepts.New York:Berg.
4. Bourdieu, Pierre(1984).Distinction: A Social Critique of the Judgment of Taste.Cambridge:Harvard University Press.
5. Caplan, Pat(1997).Food, Health and Identity.New York:Routledge.
6. Champman, G.,Maclean, H.(1993)."Junk Food" and "Healthy Food": Meanings of Food in Adolescent Women's Culture.Journal of Nutrition Education,25(3),108-130.
7. Coles, A.(Ed.),Fechter, Anne-Meike(Ed.)(2008).Gender and Family among Transnational Professionals.New York:Routledge.
8. Coles, Anne(Ed.),Fechter, Anne-Meike(Ed.)(2008).Gender and Family among Transnational Professionals.New York:Routledge.
9. Connerton, Paul(1998).How Societies Remember.Cambridge:Cambridge University Press.
10. Counihan, Carole(Ed.),Van Esterik, Panny(Ed.)(2008).Food and Culture: A Reader.New York:Routledge.
11. De Certeau, M.,Giard, L.,Mayol, P.,Tomasik, Timothy J.(Trans.)(1998).The Practice of Everyday Life, Vol. 2: Living &Cooking.Minneapolis:University of Minnesota Press.
12. DeVault, Marjorie L.(1991).Feeding the Family: The Social Organization of Caring as Gendered Work.Chicago:University of Chicago Press.
13. Douglas, Mary(2003).Food in the Social Order: Studies of Food and Festivities in Three American Communities.New York:Routledge.
14. Fechter, Anne-Meike(2007).Transnational Lives: Expatriates in Indonesia.Aldershot, Hants, England:Ashgate.
15. Fertaly, Kaitlin Lane(2009).Carbondale, USA,Southern Illinois University at Carbondale, USA.
16. Fischler, Claude(1988).Food, Self and Identity.Social Science Information,27(2),275-292.
17. Folbre, Nancy(2001).The Invisible Heart: Economics and Family Values.New York:New Press.
18. Germov, J.(Ed.),Williams, L.(Ed.)(2008).A Sociology of Food and Nutrition: The Social Appetite.Oxford:Oxford University Press.
19. Germov, John(Ed.),Williams, Lauren(Ed.)(2008).A Sociology of Food and Nutrition: The Social Appetite.Oxford:Oxford University Press.
20. Goody, Jack(1982).Cooking, Cuisine, and Class: A Study in Comparative Sociology.Cambridge:Cambridge University Press.
21. Hess, Sabine(2005).Feminized Transnational Spaces-Or the Interplay of Gender and Nation.Anthropological Yearbook of European Cultures,14,227-246.
22. Jackson, Peter(Ed.),Crang, Philip(Ed.),Dwyer, Claire(Ed.)(2004).Transnational Spaces.London:Routledge.
23. Kaufmann, Jean-Claude(2010).The Meaning of Cooking.Cambridge, U.K:Polity Press.
24. Kofman, Eleonore(1999).Female 'Birds of Passage' a Decade Later: Gender and Immigration in the European Union.International Migration Review,33(2),269-299.
25. Lan, Pei-chia(2006).Global Cinderellas: Migrant Domestics and Newly Rich Employers in Taiwan.Durham, N.C.:Duke University Press.
26. Lévi-Strauss, Claude(1970).The Raw and the Cooked.New York:Harper Torchbooks.
27. Mennell, S.,Murcott, A.,Van Otterloo, A. H.(1992).The Sociology of Food: Eating, Diet and Culture.London:Sage.
28. Mintz, Sidney Wilfred(1985).Sweetness and Power: The Place of Sugar in Modern History.New York:Penguin Books.
29. Piper, Nicola(Ed.)(2008).New Perspectives on Gender and Migration: Livelihoods, Rights and Entitlements.London:Routledge.
30. Ray, Krishnendu(2000).State University of New York at Binghamton.
31. Reden, Sandra(2000).Germany,Institut fur Kulturanthropologie und Europaische Ethnologie, University of Marburg.
32. Roos, E.,Prättälä, R.,Lahelma, E.,Kleemola, P.,Pietinen, P.(1996).Modern and Healthy? Socioeconomic Differences in the Quality of Diet.European Journal of Clinical Nutrition,50(11),753-760.
33. Short, Frances(2006).Kitchen Secrets: The Meaning of Cooking in Everyday Life.Oxford, GBR:Berg Publishers.
34. Smith, J.(1997).Hungry for You: From Cannibalism to Seduction-A Book of Food.London:Vintage.
35. Smith, M. P.(Ed.),Favell, A.(Ed.)(2006).The Human Face of Global Mobility: International Highly Skilled Migration in Europe, North America and the Asia-Pacific.New Brunswick, NJ:Transaction.
36. Squires, Stacey(2012).West Indian Women's Experience in Los Angeles: The Impact of Politics and the Global Economy.El Paso:LFB Scholarly Pub.
37. Sutton, David E.(2006).Cooking Skill, the Senses, and Memory: The Fate of Practical Knowledge.Sensible Objects: Colonialism, Museums and Material Culture,Oxford:
38. Sutton, David E.(2001).Remembrance of Repasts: An Anthropology of Food and Memory.New York:Berg.
39. Tseng, Yen-fen(2000).The Mobility of Entrepreneurs and Capital: Taiwanese Capital-Linked Migration.International Migration,2,143-168.
40. Warde, A.,Martens, L.(2000).Eating Out: Social Differentiation, Consumption and Pleasure.Cambridge:Cambridge University Press.
41. Warde, Alan(1997).Consumption, Food and Taste: Culinary Antinomies and Commodity Culture.London:Sage Publications.
42. Watson, J. L.(Ed.),Caldwell, M. L.(Ed.)(2005).The Cultural Politics of Food and Eating: A Reader.Malden MA:Blackwell Publishing.
43. Yeoh, B.,Willis, K.(2005).Singaporeans in China: Transnational Women Elites and the Negotiation of Gendered Identities.Geoforum,36(2),211-222.
44. Yeoh, Brenda(2004).Cosmopolitanism and Its Exclusions in Singapore.Urban Studies,41(12),2431-2445.
45. 欣慈，2014.04.21，〈海外就業多少人？部會霧煞煞遭批〉，《中時電子報》。http://www.chinatimes.com/realtimenews/20140421003029-260405，瀏覽日期：2014.09.30。
46. 胡明揚，2011.05.04，〈上海人口2300 萬 跟台灣相當〉，《聯合新聞網》，http://city.udn.com/54543/4618570，瀏覽日期：2014.09.30。
47. 鄧建邦(2005)。中國大陸台商的他者處境與認同衝突。和平學論文集（三）─和平、衝突與未來實踐，新北:
48. 譚玉芝(2001)。台媽在大陸。台北:大塊文化。

1. 鄧建邦(2018)。外派工作者的優勢身分變遷－以中國大陸台籍年輕工作者為例。國家發展研究，18(1)，73-110。