臺灣漢人傳統服飾應用於娃體上進行實驗性探討

邱筱婷; Hsiao-Ting)

doi:10.30001/JIES.202212_19(2).0004

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P55 - 68

医药卫生 > 医药总论
医药卫生 > 基础医学
医药卫生 > 中医药学
医药卫生 > 外科
医药卫生 > 药理医学
社会科学 > 经济学
社会科学 > 管理学

DOI： 10.30001/JIES

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台湾汉人传统服饰应用於娃体上进行实验性探讨

An Experimental Discussion on the Application of Traditional Taiwanese Han Costumes onto Baby Bodies

邱筱婷(Chiu ； Hsiao-Ting)

美容科技学刊； 19 卷 2 期 (2022 / 12 / 01) ， P55 - 68

繁体中文 DOI： 10.30001/JIES.202212_19(2).0004

台湾传统服饰；闽南；客家；文创开发；泰山产业文化馆； Taiwan traditional costumes ； Southern Fujian ； Hakka ； cultural and creative development ； Taishan Industrial Culture Museum

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摘要 │ 参考文献 (9) │ 国际计量

摘要〈TOP〉

台湾早期的生活与服饰文化，融合了自然与社会环境，渐渐形成在地风格，除了闽、客籍风格不同台湾传统服饰又可分为闽南服饰、客家服饰两系列。客家是汉民族的一系，在台湾开发的过程中，闽南、客家杂居共处。闽客分别聚居的状况就定型。闽客分居的现象使得这两族的习俗得以保留各自的特色、也反映在服饰上。由於近年政府全力推广地方「文化创意产业」运动，期望藉由「社区整体营造」经营发展「地方特色产业」，使其融入文化艺术及创意设计，创造产业优势与就业机会。本研究所探讨的泰山乡「产业文化馆」之推动计画，即以当地原有的文化特色产业－「芭比娃娃（Barbie）产业文化」为其推动之主体，而计画中之「娃衣设计与制作」与现行服装产业密切相关。配合本研究成果，协助泰山乡「娃娃产业文化馆」相关文化产品设计与开发，促进具地方特色的文化产业。本研究先以目前台湾传统服饰制作技术专书做综合性的探讨，并将其制作技术尤其是平面构成上合身版型，缩小其比例，实验性的应用於非实际人体之娃娃素体上，并运用现有制作技术专书中的方法，以试衣套穿的方式，观察比较分析，再行归类问题，研究出适合娃衣的制作方式。尤其本研究中的传统服饰，延伸发展创造出具东方特质的娃衣设计，配合现今台湾地方文化产业的推广特色，充分发挥经济产能之效益。以文献整理分析、田野调查法之访谈的方式进行资料蒐集与分析。主要的分析論点以文创产业为出发点，讨論文创、美感与经济的结合，并进而探讨泰山美寧人在文创生产过程中的美感感知经验。分析重点包括三方面：第一、针对创作团队泰山美寧人为主，探讨创作者的美感、感知及相关创作经验；第二、以美寧姑娘此一文创品为主，探讨其创作背景、成型理念与创意來源，并检视其形式、造型、内容之相关分析；第三、探讨地区性自创品牌发想、过程及发展之相关检视。研究结果以美寧姑娘为主轴，探讨台湾文创共同塑造出的集体意識和在地情感以及台湾文创走向精品化的歷程并分析其案例的可行性。研究结论归纳成三点:第一、延伸研究成果，落实文化创意产业，透过产业文化馆推广的研究案例，谱出芭比娃娃在台湾的故事，具体落实政府推动文化创意产业的善意。第二、加强年轻世代的推广，提高青年参与率，泰山现今因社会人口结构转型的问题，可能面临传统产业技术和历史记忆传承的危机，若能加强对年轻世代的推广，在为传统产业转译的同时提高青年参与率或许可以为娃娃产业的发展开辟新道路。第三、将台湾传统服饰款型上进行实验性探讨应用於娃娃体型藉此推动台湾传统服饰将娃娃形象艺术化，达到承续传统发扬创新目标，更需有计画地行销现有的产业成果，预期经计划执行成果将完成台湾传统服饰娃娃文创商品。

并列摘要〈TOP〉

Taiwan's early life and clothing culture integrated the natural and social environment, and gradually formed a local style. In addition to the different styles of Fujian and Hakka, Taiwanese traditional clothing can be divided into two series: southern Fujian clothing and Hakka clothing. Hakka is a branch of the Han nationality. During the development of Taiwan, southern Fujian and Hakka coexisted together. The situation in which the Fujian and the guests lived together separately was finalized. The separation of Hokkien and guests allowed the customs of the two ethnic groups to retain their own characteristics, which were also reflected in their clothing. As the government has made every effort to promote the local ＂cultural and creative industries＂ movement in recent years, it is hoped that ＂local characteristic industries＂ will be managed and developed through ＂community building as a whole＂, so that it can integrate cultural arts and creative design, and create industrial advantages and employment opportunities. The promotion plan of Taishan Township's ＂Industrial Culture Museum＂ discussed in this research is to take the original local cultural characteristic industry - ＂Barbie Industrial Culture＂ as the main body of promotion, and the ＂Doll Clothing Design＂ in the plan ＂And production＂ is closely related to the current clothing industry. Cooperate with the results of this research, assist in the design and development of cultural products related to the ＂Doll Industry Cultural Center＂ in Taishan Township, and promote cultural industries with local characteristics. In this study, a comprehensive discussion is made based on the current special book on the production technology of traditional Taiwanese costumes, and its production technology, especially the flat shape of the fit version, is reduced in proportion, and it is experimentally applied to the doll body that is not a real human body. Using the methods in the existing production technology book, in the way of fitting clothes, observation, comparison and analysis, and then classifying the problems, the production method suitable for baby clothes is researched. In particular, the traditional costumes in this study have been extended and developed to create doll clothing designs with oriental characteristics, in line with the promotion characteristics of local cultural industries in Taiwan today, and give full play to the benefits of economic production capacity. Data collection and analysis are carried out by means of literature analysis and fieldwork interviews. The main analytical arguments take the cultural and creative industry as the starting point, discuss the combination of cultural creativity, aesthetics and economy, and then discuss the aesthetic perception experience of Taishan Meining people in the process of cultural and creative production. The analysis focuses on three aspects: first, focusing on the creative team Taishan Meining people, to discuss the creator's aesthetic feeling, perception and related creative experience; Forming the concept and source of creativity, and reviewing the relevant analysis of its form, shape, and content; thirdly, discussing the relevant review of the idea, process and development of regional self-created brands. The research results take Meining girl as the main axis, discuss the collective consciousness and local emotion jointly created by Taiwan's cultural and creative industries, as well as the process of Taiwan's cultural and creative enterprises becoming high-quality products, and analyze the feasibility of their cases. The research conclusions can be summarized into three points: First, extend the research results, implement the cultural and creative industries, and compose the story of Barbie in Taiwan through the research cases promoted by the Industrial Cultural Center, and concretely implement the government's goodwill to promote the cultural and creative industries. Second, strengthen the promotion of the younger generation and increase the youth participation rate. Due to the transformation of the social demographic structure, Taishan may face the crisis of traditional industrial technology and historical memory inheritance. If the promotion to the younger generation can be strengthened, it will be translated into traditional industries. At the same time, increasing the youth participation rate may open up new paths for the development of the doll industry. Third, the experimental discussion on the styles of Taiwanese traditional costumes is applied to the doll body shape, so as to promote Taiwanese traditional costumes to make the image of dolls artistic, to achieve the goal of inheriting the tradition and carrying forward innovation, and it is necessary to plan the marketing of the existing industrial achievements. It is expected that after the implementation of the plan, the cultural and creative products of Taiwanese traditional costumes and dolls will be completed.

参考文献 ( 9 ) 〈TOP〉

闽粤两族分布图https://zh.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E5%AE%A2%E5%AE%B6%E8%A3%94%E8%87%BA%E7%81%A3%E4%BA%BA
闽粤两族传统服饰https://www.google.com/search/q=%E5%AE%A2%E5%AE%B6%E9%96%A9%E5%8D%97
客家蓝衫网址 http://www.blueshirt.com.tw/blueshirt.html
泰山文化馆原文网址：https://kknews.cc/n/5jxg9x8.html https://www.smartlinkin.com.tw/article/3560
Kay, J.,Reimann(2013).Kay, J., Reimann, A Visual Guide to the Ultimate Fashion Doll, B. (2013):70-77..

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