地方特色食物之構築歷程：以關西仙草為例

The Construction Process of Food with Local Characteristics: A Case Study of Guanxi Mesona

張瓊月(JHANG Cyong-Yue)；彭立沛(PENG Li-Pei)；賴守誠(LAI Shou-Cheng)

農特產 ； 地方食物 ； 品質化 ； 地方行動者 ； 節慶 ； typical local food ； local food ； qualification ； local actors ； festival

中國飲食文化

13卷1期（2017 / 04 / 01）

121 - 164

繁體中文

相較於化約個人功利與經濟效益的行銷管理領域，本研究則欲藉由文化經濟取徑釐清地方特色食物的形成因素與發展過程，並辨認其中所蘊含的社會網絡和行動策略。本研究以「關西仙草」為個案，以質性方法系統性探索地方特色食物的演變歷程。本研究發現：在仙草的傳統特質時期（1990 年以前），消費社會將仙草定位為普遍性的藥草，多以冷品的形式受到大眾歡迎，關西地區亦在1980 年代開始出現規模種植的情形。在仙草的積極改造創新時期（1991 至2000 年），透過公私營單位對仙草的投入，使仙草不僅從傳統家庭藥草，變成可標準化大量生產的冷品材料，也從原本只適合在夏季享用的食物，變成冬季也受消費者歡迎的熱飲品項。而在仙草的地方特色食物成形時期（2001 年之後），關西地區的農會與業者同時採取供應鏈與延展地域策略，除了積極投入仙草產品的研究，亦利用地方食物節慶「關西仙草節」博得在地消費者之認同。總體而言，地方特色食物的發展塑造與意義賦予並不是固定不變的過程，而是隨著行動者涉入時間與採取策略之不同而不斷改變的，其中，積極生產與創造消費更是維繫地方特色食物的基石。

In contrast to the reduction of personal utility and economic benefit in the field of marketing management, this study clarifies the factors that underlie the formation and development of foods with local characteristics, and identifies the social networks and strategies involved. Based on the case study of ＂Guanxi Mesona,＂ this study uses qualitative research methods to systematically explore the evolution process of typical local foods. The study shows that consumer society characterized Mesona as a common herb during the period before 1990. It was usually served as a cold food, and was well-received by the general public. Since the 1980s, large-scale plantation has begun in the Guanxi area. During the period of Mesona's active transformation and innovation (1991 to 2000), not only did the traditional family herb become an ingredient for cold food that can be standardized and mass-produced, but what used to be consumers’ favorite summer treat also became a popular hot drink in the winter. During the period when Mesona was being transformed into a typical local food (after 2001), the Guanxi Farmers' Association and Guanxi merchants simultaneously adopted strategies to extend the supply chain and extend their territory. In addition to active commitments to Mesona product research, local food festivals like the ＂Guanxi Mesona Festival＂ were also used to gain local consumers' recognition. Overall, the development of typical local foods does not follow a uniform process. Instead, the development pathway is altered by differences in the time of involvement of various actors and the strategies they adopt. Among these factors, active creation of production and consumption are especially important as factors that maintain typical local foods.

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