試論林文月、蔡珠兒的「飲食散文」－兼述臺灣當代散文體式與格調的轉變

On the 'Yin Shi San Wen' of Lin Wen-yue and Cai Zhu'er: And the Change of Form and Style in Contemporary Taiwan Prose

何寄澎(Chi-Peng Ho)

林文月 ； 蔡珠兒 ； 飲食文化 ； 飲食散文 ； 散文體式 ； Lin Wenyue ； Cai Zhu'er ； prose on food and drink ； aesthetics of food and drink ； style of prose ； form of prose

臺灣文學研究集刊

1期（2006 / 02 / 01）

191 - 206

繁體中文

自九○年代以降，「飲食散文」已成為臺灣當代散文中重要之一脈。本文鎖定林文月《飲膳札記》、蔡珠兒《紅燜廚娘》二本作品加以探討，除顯示當代臺灣飲食散文風格各異的二種面貌，亦企圖兼述當代臺灣散文體式與格調的轉變。林氏《飲膳札記》一書，精細嚴明，敘述性格濃厚，語言素朴，主題懷舊，亦不時流露林氏個人之涵養、風度、個性；蔡氏《紅燜廚娘》則節奏快板變化，文字華彩繽紛，重視讀者的官能享受。相較之下，《飲》書為抒情的飲食美學，《紅》書為感官的飲食美學。文末則承《飲》書、《紅》書二者的特質概述，推而略及臺灣當代散文書寫風尚之轉變，藉供散文史研究之參考。

Since the 90's, ”Yin Shi San Wen” (”prose on food and drink”) has become an important genre in contemporary Taiwan prose. This paper will focus on Lin Wenyue's ”Yin Shan Zha Ji” (”Notes about Food and Drink”) and Cai Zhu'er's ”Hong Men Chu Niang” (”Stewing Cook”), not only shows the two types of prose in contemporary Taiwan Yin Shi San Wen, but also tries to research on the change of form and style in contemporary Taiwan prose. Lin's ”Yin Shan Zha Ji” is fine, well structured, with clear narrative voice and simple language; it's theme is remindful, often express Lin's personality. On the other hand, Cai's ”Hong Men Chu Niang” is written in some fast rhythm, changeable, and with gorgeous language, make much of readers' sensation. In comparison, the aesthetics of ”Yin Shan Zha Ji” is sentimental, and of ”Hong Men Chu Niang” is sense. On the base of it, this paper makes some conclusions regarding the changes in contemporary Taiwan prose, and may do some devotion for further research on prose history.

1. 何寄澎(2003)。孤寂與愛的美學─綜論簡媜散文及其文學史意義。聯合文學，225
2. 林文月(1999)。飲膳札記。臺北:洪範書店。
3. 陳義芝編(2002)。林文月精選集。臺北:九歌。
4. 蔡珠兒(2005)。紅燜廚娘。臺北:聯合文學。

1. 林有仁(2017)。蔡珠兒、林金城的飲食書寫及比較研究。臺灣大學台灣文學研究所學位論文。2017。1-152。