「慢」出好滋味－臺東縣縱谷地區慢食發展之研究

＂Slow＂ Process Good Taste: A Study of Slow Food Development in the Rift Valley Area, Taitung County

10.6157/ALRR.201907_10(2).0001

劉襄群(Hsiang-Chun Liu)；江昱仁(Yu-Jen Chiang)

慢食 ； 在地飲食 ； 飲食文化 ； 飲食觀光 ； Slow food ； Local cuisine ； Food culture ； Food tourism

休閒與遊憩研究

10卷2期（2019 / 07 / 01）

1 - 44

繁體中文

臺東縣縱谷地區有著乾淨無污染的環境，加上人文與地理交錯形成多元族群融合生活的特性，臺東縣政府自2012年起，選定此區域開始推動「一個人的產地餐桌」計畫，縱谷地區成為臺東慢食發展較早之地區，因此了解此區域業者經營發展有其重要性。本研究主要目的即在調查「一個人的產地餐桌」計畫參與業者參與前後之態度、過程中遭遇的挑戰、與小農生產連結的議題及參與計畫後對自身經營的影響。研究採質性研究法，資料蒐集方式透過半結構式訪談大綱進行深度訪談，以參加本計畫比賽獲選團隊的業者為訪談對象，共計9人。研究結果發現，隨著計畫參與時間增加，受訪業者漸次了解慢食之意涵，在態度上也從原有的觀望態度和個人效益取向，轉化成對土地生產倫理和對料理與族群文化連結的正視。在面對之挑戰部分，除經營方式改變產生之成本提高、利潤下降外，與小農配合的食材獲得是主要之議題，然而磨合過程，也逐漸與小農連結，更建立了在地小農和餐飲業者的夥伴網絡。在參與計畫後之影響部分，受訪業者多認為帶動了當地、當時令與環境友善生產認同，也帶動了自身族群文化認同和以飲食為認識族群文化的中介，在經濟上，則認為帶動了地方另類產業網絡的形成與平日商機增加，在社會面向則為帶動對在地認識的熱情，更帶動了一種人與人「相信」的關係。

The Rift Valley Area in Taitung County is an area that has been entirely free from factory pollution, abundance in clean nature, and distinctively features a fusion of multi-ethnic groups. Since 2012, Taitung Government has promoted it as the area for ＂The Project of a Single Person's Table of Origin,＂ namely, the birthplace of Taitung ＂Slow Food＂. It is important to understand the business development of project participatants in this area. The main purpose of this study is to investigate: the attitude of interviewees who participated in this project before and after the participations; Challenges and difficulties encountered in the process, issues linked to local small-scale farmers, Perceived impacts produced after participating in this project. The data were collected from in-depth interview from nine interviewees who are business owners participating in this project and pragmatically operating stores within the Taitung Rift Valley area. Main results are as follows: 1. As the time for project counseling increased, the interviewees gradually learned the meaning of slow food. 2. The attitude of interviewees transformed from the wait-and-see and personal benefit orientation into the understanding of land production ethics and the connection between cuisine and local culture. 3. In the face of the challenges, in addition to the cost increase and profit decline caused by changes in business operation, the acquisition of local ingredients in cooperation with local small scale farmers is the main issue. Though the running-in process was happened, the connection between local small scale farmers and interviewed business operators was gradually established. 4. It is shown that the identity of local production environment and ethnic identity were promoted, and the cusine could be used as an intermediary to understand ethnic culture after the participation in the project. In economic terms, it is shown that the alternative industrial networks were formed and the weekdays- business opportunities were also increased. In social terms, it is shown that the promotion of enthusiasm for local cognition, and ＂believe＂ relationship among people.

1. 王志宏、沈孟熲(2010)。東南亞飲食再現策略：異國文化、多元文化與己異化認同。東南亞學刊，7(1)，151-192。
   連結：
2. 王明珂(2007)。青稞、蕎麥與玉米。中國飲食文化，3(2)，23-71。
   連結：
3. 江昱仁、陳映菁、謝文凱(2017)。觀光發展下地方餐飲業經營轉變之探討：以台東縣池上鄉為例。島嶼觀光研究，10(4)，1-34。
   連結：
4. 梁炳琨(2008)。農業食物在地化臺東縣池上鄉米食產業的探討。地理學報，53，85-117。
   連結：
5. 陳貞吟、孫妤鑫(2008)。用心品味：小吃在遊客心中的意義與價值。餐旅暨家政學刊，5(1)，1-20。
   連結：
6. 掌慶琳、陳香吟、蔡振蒼(2015)。休閒農場遊客飲食消費動機之研究：兼論慢食之觀點。餐旅暨觀光，12(1)，23-50。
   連結：
7. Au, N.,Law, R.(2002).Categorical classification of tourism dining.Annals of Tourism Research,29(3),819-833.
8. Bessière, J.(1998).Local Development and Heritage: Traditional Food and Cuisine as Tourist Attractions in Rural Areas.Sociologia Ruralis,38(1),21-34.
9. Caplan, P.(Ed.)(1997).Food, health and identity.London:Routledge.
10. Dittermer, D.(2001).Dimensions of the hospitality industry : An introduction.New York, NY:Routledge.
11. Everett, S.,Aitchison, C.C.(2008).The Role of Food Tourism in Sustaining Regional Identity: A Case Study of Cornwall, South West England.Journal of Sustainable Tourism,16(2),150-167.
12. Flaten, O.,Lien, G.,Koesling, M.,Valle, P. S.,Ebbesvik, M.(2005).Comparing risk perceptions and risk management in organic and conventional dairy farming: empirical results from Norway.Livestock Production Science,95,11-25.
13. Getz, D.(1998).Wine tourism: Global overview and perspectives on its development.Gravenwezel/Schilde, Belgium:Academie Voor de Streekgebonden Gastronomie.
14. Hall, C. M.,Mitchell, R.(2005).Gastronomic tourism: Comparing food and Wine tourism experiences.Niche Tourism: Contemporary Issues, Trends and Cases,Oxford:
15. Hall, C. M.,Mitchell, R.,Sharples, L.(2003).Consuming places: the role of food, wine and tourism in regional development.Food tourism around the world: Development, management and markets,Oxford:
16. Hall, M.,Mitchell, R.(2000).We are what we eat: Food, tourism and globalization.Tourism, Culture and Communication,2(1),29-37.
17. Hjalager, A. M.(Ed.),Richards, G.(Ed.)(2002).Tourism and Gastronomy.London:Routledge.
18. Hjalager, A. M.,Corigliano, M. A.(2000).Food for tourists-determinants of an image.International Journal of Tourism Reasearch,2(4),281-293.
19. Joppe, M.,Martin, D.,Waalen, J.(2001).Toronto's image as a destination: a comparative importance satisfaction analysis by origin of visitor.Journal of Travel Research,39,252-260.
20. Kaltoft, P.(1999).Values about Nature in Organic Farming Practice and Knowledge.Sociologia Ruralis,39(1),39-53.
21. Labelle, J.(2004).A recipe for connectedness bridging production and consumption with Slow Food. Food, Culture and Society.An International Journal of Multidisciplinary Research,7(2),81-96.
22. Lee, K.H.,Packer, J.,Scott, N.(2015).Travel lifestyle preferences and destination activity choices of Slow Food members and non-members.Tourism Management,46,1-10.
23. Lee, K.H.,Scott, N.,Packer, J.(2014).Habitus and food lifestyle: In-destination activity participation of Slow Food members.Annals of Tourism Research,48,207-220.
24. Lin, Y. C.,Pearson, T. E.,Cai, L. A.(2011).Food as a form of Destination Identity: A Tourism Destination Brand Perspective.Tourism and Hospitality Research,11(1),30-48.
25. Liu, A.(2006).Tourism in rural areas: Kedah, Malaysia.Tourism Management,27(5),878-889.
26. Long, L. M.(Ed.)(2004).Culinary tourism.Kentucky:The University Press of Kentucky.
27. Mak, A. H. N.,Lumbers, M.,Eves, A.(2012).Globalisation and food consumption in markets.Oxford:Butterworth-Heinemann.
28. McKercher, B.,Okumus, F.,Okumus, B.(2008).Food tourism as a viable market segement: It's all how you cook.Journal of Travel & Tourism Marketing,25,137-147.
29. Mishler, E. G.(1986).Research Interviewing: Context and Narrative.MA, Cambridge:Harvard University Press.
30. Murdoch, J.,Marsden, T.,Banks, J.(2000).Quality, Nature, and Embeddedness: Some Theoretical Considerations in the Context of the Food Sector.Economic Geography,76(2),107-125.
31. Murdoch, J.,Miele, M.(1999).Back to Nature: Changing 'Worlds of Production' in the Food Sector.Sociologia Ruralis,39(4),465-483.
32. Nosi, C.,Zanni, L.(2004).Moving from typical products to food-related services: the Slow Food case as a new business paradigm.British Food Journal,106(10/11),779-792.
33. Okumus, B.,Okumus, F.,McKercher, B.(2007).Incorporating Local and International Cuisines in the Marketing of Tourism Destinations: The Cases of Hong Kong and Turkey.Tourism Management,28(1),253-261.
34. Parkins, W.,Craig, G.(2006).Slow living.Oxford:Berg Publishers.
35. Petrini, C.(2001).Slow food. The case for taste.New York:Columbia University Press.
36. Petrini, C.(2007).Slow Food nation: Why our food should be good, clean and fair.New York:Rizzoli Ex Libris.
37. Schneider, S.(2008).Good, clean, fair: The rhetoric of the Slow Food movement.College English,70(4),384-402.
38. Slow Food.( 2015). Slow Food: The History of an Idea. https://www.slowfood.com/about-us/our-history/.
39. Slow Food. Slow food. About us. (2013).
40. Sparks, B.,Bowen, J.,Klag, S.(2003).Restaurants and the Tourist Market.International Journal of Contemporary Hospitality Management,15(1),6-13.
41. Strasser, Susan(ed.)(2003).Commodifying Everything: Relationships of the Market.New York, NY:Routledge.
42. Telfer, D. J.,Wall, G.(2000).Strengthening backward economic linkages: local food purchasing by three Indonesian hotels.Tourism Geographies,2(4),421-447.
43. Telfer, D. J.,Wall, G.(1996).Linkages between tourism and food production.Annals of Tourism Research,23(3),635-653.
44. Telfer, D.J.,Wall, G.(2000).Strengthening backward economic linkages: Local food tourism.Annals of Tourism Research,39(1),171-196.
45. Uner, E.H.(2014).Ankara,Institute of Social Sciences, Atılım University.
46. University of Gastronomic Sciences.(2019). History & Mission. https://www.unisg.it/en/administration/storia-e-missione
47. Warde, A.,Martens, L.(2000).Eating out: Social differentiation, consumption and pleasure.Cambridge:Cambridge University Press.
48. Williams, L.T.,Germov, J.,Fuller, S.,Freij, M.(2015).A taste of ethical consumption at a slow food festival.Appetite,91,321-328.
49. 江昱仁(2018)。增修台東縣史觀光產業篇。台東市:台東縣政府。
50. 何杰霖(2016)。碩士論文(碩士論文)。嘉義，南華大學旅遊管理學系。
51. 林怡潔(2018)。飲食文化展示與設計：道地與後現代風土主義。臺灣人類學刊，16(2)，159-178。
52. 林光華(2009)。漫漫客家路。客家雜誌，223，44。
53. 津和堂城鄉創意顧問有限公司(2016)。臺東縣「產地餐桌行旅品牌及行銷發展計畫」總成果報告書。
54. 徐正光編(2007)。台灣客家研究概論。台北市:行政院客家委員會。
55. 國際慢食 • 台灣分會（ 2015 ）。關於我們。網址：http://www.slowfood.com.tw/about-us.html.
56. 發現台東慢食（ 2018 ）。關於發現台東慢食。網址：https://www.facebook.com/SlowFoodTaitung/.
57. 楊曼華(2011)。碩士論文(碩士論文)。苗栗，國立聯合大學經濟與社會研究所。
58. 楊國賜編(2002)。新世紀的教育學概論─科技整合的導向。臺北:學富。
59. 鄭健雄(2006)。休閒農業管理─企業經營觀點。台北市:雙葉書廊。
60. 鄧安琪(2007)。碩士論文(碩士論文)。桃園，元智大學藝術管理研究所。
61. 賴守誠(2008)。食物的文化經濟與農鄉發展：義大利慢食運動及臺灣客家飲食運動的個案比較。農業推廣學報，24，45-72。

1. 樊祖燁,趙麗萍,董書妤,楊苡熙(2022)。校園創業可行性之研究－以校園咖啡廳為例。管理資訊計算，11(1)，162-176。
2. 林佩蓉,江昱仁,王威凱(2023)。慢食力－以方法目的鏈探討慢食節遊客價值意涵。觀光休閒學報，29(2)，153-195。
3. 鄭肇祺(2023)。消失又重現於生活中的毛蟹：溪流、人與水生生物的互動關係。民俗曲藝，219，145-192。